Rear setup first gen

I’m planning on long traveling my rear soon
I’m looking at Deaver f67 Leafs
12 inch shackles on mounted on top of my frame rail
I have total chaos bump stops and I am also building a bed cage

my question is should I run kings triple bypass with remote reservoir 16 inch or 18 inch shocks ?

My front setup is total chaos 3.5 with kings shocks and triple bypasses

 

If your shocks are angled you can get away with 16's. I personally like the piggy back reservoir, to me it is a cleaner look. But that is my $.02.

 

They are going to be angled 30-35 Deg. On the outside of the frame rail
So I can’t do piggyback reservoirs (tire rub)

 

Get a first gen Tundra (00-06) axle - there's a good chance you'll be able to sell your axle for around the same price you buy it for - it'll give you 3" extra inches per side so you can run piggyback bypasses outside of the frame without a lot of rubbing. I'd go with Deaver H70's (E30's is another name for them) - I'm basically copying the setup @Anthony250 has on his truck and he's got the H70's with 12" shackles, a Tundra axle, and 16" piggyback triple bypasses like you mentioned. F67's are notorious for flattening out.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/anthonys-99-tacoma.175933/

I've been working on compiling some resources. I'll post them here if you don't mind:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/nathans-long-travel-build.217479/page-12#post-5951387

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project579.html

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/first-gen-f67-install-critique-advice.349589/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jds-02-tacoma-build.126596/page-6#post-4583880

 

Rear axle is in the plans I was going to try to keep my elocker also (if I can)

rear axle is in the plans I’m going to try to keep my elocker if I can

 

If you plan to carry more weight than one spare. Then buy H70's they hold up weight better and have better ride. 16'' shocks are the way to go 18's are pretty long they work but makes for a uglier bed cage. Leaning the shocks 30 degrees is a lot. Try to do no more than 20 degrees. I have mine at 10 degrees at full bump leaned forward and with 16's shocks I got about 17.75" of travel and it works perfect using any more travel is not really needed and the leafs are being overworked. Running shocks outside the frame with the stock width axle is quite a challenge. You would need 2-3" wheel spacers and large offset wheels even then I think you would rub the shocks with the tires. With bypasses, with smooth body style shocks It may work okay.

 

Makes sense stock shocks are at a 19-20deg
Thanks for the answer I was looking for
I’m getting a tundra axle so I should be good on that I haven’t made one thing yet for the rear
I wanted to keep the shocks under the height of the bed rails in the rear
I have advanced glass on the way for front 4.5 and rear 4
I want to start the rear upset some time this coming winter I hope to have the front done soon before summer

 

With 16” shocks will be at bedline or below. Go with 7” rear bedsides with tundra axle. 4” are too small.

 

Oops they are ordered (4inch)and will be here next week sometime

 

I have a set of old ass deaver F67. They are still doing great! 16" smoothies w/hose resiviours, 12" shackle, near magic number, No bed tho (I want one), bed cage, 2 spares, 3" glass, tool box. Lots of clearance, rides great (tune those shocks!) No complaints, no desire to change.

Pic shows I almost cleaned the shock shaft after a jump yesterday.

 

What’s the magic number ? I see that a lot and how do I manage to figure that out ?

 

Here's a rundown for installing the spring hangers / shackles / spring perches I got from someone else on here - maybe other people want to chime in as well on the process:

Setting Springs:
remove all the stock stuff. bolt on only.
measure stock springs; axle pin to front bushing. center-line to center-line
measure new springs; axle pin to front bushing. center-line to center-line
mark the current center line of the front hangar. scribe the line. DO NOT use pen; scribe
scribe another line as follows: new spring measurement - old spring measurement - .25" (or .5") forward of first scribe
cut off old hangar.
locate and tack new hangar.
do this one side at a time.
break down the new leafs.
mount leaf (the main one) to front hangar
compress the leaf against the frame until flat
mount shackle to leaf
mount shackle mount to shackle
let mount touch off top of the frame
tack shackle mount into location
let the suspension droop out, do not pull the spring down
measure spring to frame
subtract axle tube diameter and net spring perch height. this is your total travel.
confirm shackle is at 90 deg to the frame
if the shackle swings forward, measure difference. use trig if needed
cut tacks and move shackle mount forward this distance.
cycle suspension till flat again
move onto pinion angle

when everything is correct burn spring mounts in
repeat on other side

Pinion Angle:
slide axle onto perches and springs. install u bolts and u bolt plates. use wood/square stock to make spring near assembled thickness
bolt on driveshaft
confirm driveshaft isnt bottomed out. .25" is enough. even .125" is enough though a bit close
if drive shaft is bottoming, move front perches back to prevent this. repeat above, again
set pinion 3 or 4 deg below driveshaft
cycle suspension to middle, measure angles again
cycle to bump, measure angles again
confirm everything is good
adjust pinion at droop as required
pinion should be equal to or below driveshaft, always
tack perches when satisfied
cycle again with everything tacked

Welding:
Weld in front mounts
recycle
weld in shackle mounts
recycle
weld in perches
recycle

Setting Bump:
cycle till leafs are flat. this is after all mounts are set and pinion is too
if clearance to frame permits, go 1 ish inches higher
place and tack bump mount flat at max compression
depressurize bumps
put bumps in cans and place perpendicular to bump pads
measure and build bump can mounts

Setting Shocks:
depressurize shocks
collapse shocks to rubber bump pads, no further
install lower shock mounts
pick where you want to mount them. try not to go lower than the bottom of the axle tube
tack mounts
shocks can angle a bit. mine at 15 deg at bump. 7 at droop. 16" shock pulling over 17" travel

Bed Cage:
this is up to you
shocks may protrude above bedline if mounted higher on axle tube

Droop:
droop suspension
pick limit strap location
adjust 1" per 12" of limit strap up from bottom out
order parts accordingly

 

My stock springs are long gone I have ome springs on the rear now but I think I have a good idea there’s going to be a lot on math with this one
I’m getting Deaver f67 springs and the rest is going to be total chaos stuff
I do t think it’s going to be that bad I just want to know as much as I can and do this one time type of thing

 

Say that out loud, but first say "Alexa".

 

She told me 52.5

 

So cool!

 

Installing 61 1/2” Deaver Springs


Very important: Do not cut any of the factory brackets from the frame until the new spring hangers and shackle pivot boss have been mocked up and are tacked into place to make sure that you have a reference in case of any miscalculation.


1. Place the back of the truck on jack stands and droop out the rear suspension.

2. Remove all items that are going to be replaced: shocks, shackles, leaf springs, brake line.

3. If you do not wish to undo the emergency brake, the axle can be put on jack stands under the truck. The rear brake proportion valve will have to be unbolted from the rear axle.

4. The rod that comes out of the brake proportion valve will have to be cut right at the boot on the valvemounted to the frame. This is the easiest way to remove the proportion valve without having to completely rework the rear brakes.

5.Take the new 61 ½” springs and place them next to the factory spring. You have to take two measurements in order to install the new springs. First measurement; measuring along the arch of the main leaf of the spring pack as if the spring were completely flat, the distance from the center pin to the front eyelet on both springs. The distance between the two will be how far forward on the frame the new spring hanger will be placed. Measure eyehole of the existing spring hanger to eyehole of the new spring hanger and place on the frame accordingly. Tack the new spring hanger into place.

6. Second measurement; following the same rule, measure along the arch of the main leaf from the center pin to the rear eyelet. Again, the distance between the factory leaf and the new spring will be how far back the shackle pivot will need to be placed. For a 9” shackle, mount the shackle pivot either underneath the frame or directly through the frame. For a 12” shackle, mount the shackle pivot above the frame. Gusseting the shackle pivot will be required in order to add durability to this component. At ride height, the shackle should be almost perpendicular to the frame rail. The shackle should be angled backed approximately 5-10 degrees at ride height.

7. When all the new bracket have been tacked into place, cross measure from the left front spring hanger to the right shackle pivot and then measure from the right front spring hanger to the left shackle pivot to make sure that the new mounts are square.

8. If all new brackets are even to each other then the old brackets can be removed and the new brackets can be fully welded.

9. On 4wd trucks, the factory spring perch located on the rear axle does not have to be removed for it will not interfere with the new spring perch. Remember, the new leaf springs will be mounted underneath the rear axle.

10. The pinion angle should be set at ride height with aclose representation of the vehicle under typical load, and should be directly inline with the transmission and transfer case output. Once the pinion angle is set, tack the axle perch into place.

11. To properly set the shocks mounts and make sure that the suspension cycles smooth, the leaf pack should be disassembled down to the main leaf and then installedon the vehicle. This will allow the suspension to be fully compressed and drooped out without restriction.

12. Cycle the suspension through its full travel to make sure the driveline does not bind.

13. At full compression, the springs are designed to gointo negative arch a small amount. The factory compression stop can be relocated and reused or an aftermarket compression stop can be installed.

14. With the main leaf installed, the shocks can be properly set-up for full extension and compression. Once the measurements have been taken, the lower shock mounts can be tacked and upper shock mounts can be fabricated.

15. Once the shocks have been set, and the pinion angle is correct, the axle perch can be fully welded along with the shock tabs. The leaf pack can also be reassembled and installed on the vehicle.

16. The last step is to install the new brake line and bleed the brakes.

17. All components should be torqued and checked periodically.


All of this info is from total chaos

 

Did you ever get your rear set up done?

 

No I haven’t
I’ve been lazy working on the truck my day job has been crazy so 60-65 work weeks and only having time one the weekends and it being 90+ doesn’t help
I hoping to work on it this weekend and start the bed cage
My goal is New Years back driving

 

I pretty much did a h70 sua ( however tension shackle) set up on mine recently,
I did it for many reasons mostly because i used what was already there and modified what needed to be beefed up. Used a collection of parts i either got on disocunt or craigslist.