Replace front diff bearing- not the needle bearing, the passenger side?

I have searched copiously and cannot find this, although there are a billion threads on the ecgs drivers side bushing install...

Is the larger bearing on the passenger side serviceable while diff is installed? I ordered it from ECGS when I got the bushing and install tool for the driver side, but cant find any talk of anyone else replacing it.

This one:
Toyota 8" Clamshell Passenger Side Tube Bearing (T8CS-TUBE-BRG)



I also cant find anyone saying that play in the axles on the passenger side was an issue as it is for me. I have over 1/4in of play in both axles.

Any information/ how to/ would be appreciated.

 

Found one, and that one links to another

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/passenger-side-cv-axle-shaft-bearing-replacement.523698/

 

Then you have not seen any of my posts pertaining to this.

The passenger side actually has the same needle bearing up against the diff as the left and it is even the same part number. The difference is the driver's side has a CV shaft directly entering the bearing, but the passenger has a short stub shaft directly entering it as part of the ADD. I have replaced the passenger side needle bearing with the ECGS bushing on two Tacos.

On the passenger side the CV shaft enters directly into that ball bearing you show. That bearing is rather robust but has some play within typical of such a bearing. There is no way to adjust the play.

The ball bearing can certainly be replaced but I have not attempted to do so in situ. Rather I have removed the 4 Torx bolts holding the ADD tube to the side of the differential and put the whole tube in a vice. I have thought later some about whether that bearing can be removed without taking off the ADD tube and I believe so. You may have to get a slide hammer and pull it but again I can't positively affirm.

Rather, if you have been changing gear oil frequently and the oil is not contaminated and is at the correct level in the diff I do not think I can recommend going after the ball bearing as a preventive maintenance item. But would recommend doing so if there are strange noises, gear oil contamination including metal in the gear oil.

With the CV shafts installed and the truck sitting on the ground and the drive line unloaded the RH bearing should have a little play and that would be normal. I believe there is a spec. Contrast that with the LH that may have an alarming amount of play present, even when brand new.

 

That’s great- I did see some pictures of the tube Shaft you mention. What about leaving the bearing in place and replacing the needle bearing on the passenger side after removing the tube? Would the amount of time required to remove the tube be prohibitive as preventative maintenance in your opinion?

Basically, I am trying to address all my front end/ driveline vibe issues while some of the other things are apart for cv replacement and suspension install.

Thanks! That info will be tremendously helpful and I will now go parouae some of your old threads

 

I never made a separate thread about this but have commented in the massive "Official 2nd Gen Front Diff Side Bearing..." thread.

The reason I replaced the needle bearings on the passenger side is that in late-2008 another guy with an FJ Cruiser and I were experimenting and extensively testing ways to obtain ATRAC on non-ATRAC equipped models by fooling the ECU. What was achieved was not ATRAC but something later coined 4lo TRAC, a softer version of ATRAC. The 4lo TRAC required quite a bit of wheel spin to get activated we considered a possible hammering-shock effect within the diff as brakes were applied unevenly side-to-side and the forces shifted internally.

I became aware of the issue with the needle bearing on the driver's side and was the second one to do the replacement. While inside I decided to check the passenger side and found what I believed to be shock loading marks of the needles against the CV shaft itself so I ordered another ECGS bushing.

Its kind of a big job getting to the pass side needle bearing. You would have to remove all the same stuff + the ADD tube. I'm just not sure I would be inclined to recommend anyone routinely do the job unless there were some compelling reason. And other than the common issue with the LH needle bearing I do not believe I have ever run across a vibration issue traced to the other parts.

 

Well, I remembered why I was taking off the entire ADD tube and putting it in a vise. Its because you have to. A clip has to be removed on the inboard part of the ADD tube to remove the internal shaft and then a press used to remove and reinstall the ball bearing on that shaft. See the illustration on page DF 17 linked here for an exploded view of the ADD tube parts:
https://www.customtacos.com/tech.ol...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/03700510.pdf

 

That’s a really good visual. So is the needle bearing the one called differential clutch hub in the lower right of diagram 17?

 

Look at page DF-18 near the center. You will see the two needle bearings: one on each side of what is called out as the case assembly.

 

When I replaced mine, I removed the whole tube assembly. You can probably get to it on the truck but would be a total pain. The snap rings are difficult to work with. I wouldn't see any need to replace that bearing as long as you changed the differential oil at the recommended intervals as that bearing sits in the oil bath. Here's a link to some pictures that might be helpful

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/

 

Thanks for the link- lots of good pictures of disassembly. Manual locking hubs idea is tempting but pricey. For now, I have decided to do the drivers side replacement and leave the passenger side alone. We will see how things feel in terms of driveline vibes my guess is they will be a lot better- in the midst of doing brakes, shocks, add a leaf, cv, sway bar links, changing oils, u joints, etc