05-15 2wd to 4wd conversion guide (for dummies)

There’s a ton of great info/guides on TW about converting a 2nd gen to 4wd but I felt there was a lot missing, especially if you’re a mechanically declined dummy, like myself. In this guide, I will try to breakdown some of the more technical details I struggled with that the other conversion threads did not cover and explain them step-by-step so someone with little mechanical experience can do the conversion. Hopefully, if you’re like me and are on the fence about doing it, this thread will help you realize it is not that hard!

This will destroy your resale value. This will cost more than just selling and buying a 4x4. iT’lL bE sUpEr DuPer uNrEliAbLe….there that should take care of the typical responses I see on here. Now let’s get started!

Useful background info​

The truck: 2013 DCSB Prerunner SR5 V6 185K miles. Measurements and parts differ by engine, year, trim, etc so just be aware how I did my conversion may be different than yours.

My mechanic skill level: I know how to watch a youtube video and repeat what I see on my truck lol that said, I use TW and youtube to do all my own work such as all oils, belts, spark plugs, etc.

My welding skill level: beginner. My welds are ugly but they strong enough for this project (I hope so, I guess I’ll find out one day)

Main threads I referenced:

@Brian422
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brians-f-r-locked-postrunner-build.610146/page-23

@05Taco4x4
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/prerunner-to-4x4-conversion-guide.534480/

@lucky
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lucky-07-prerunner-to-4x4-conversion.311339/

@ilubtimmyhos
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/prerunner-to-4x4-conversion.670257/

FJ swap thread
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/

Torque specs
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/
The peeps that helped me along the way, could not have done it without your knowledge! Sorry if I left someone out. Shoutout to all my pears:

@6 gearT444E @EatSleepTacos @Brian422 @jowybyo @whatstcp @ovrlndkull

Tools you’ll need
​

Aside from basic hand tools, here’s what I needed:

• 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19mm socket and wrenches
• 24mm short socket (not deep) for trans fill plug and t case
• 35mm deep socket for CV axle nuts
• 10mm Allen wrench for front diff plugs (thanks Toyota)
• BFH (big friendly hammer)
• LOTS of extensions (more on that later)
• Wobble sockets
• Impact wrench
• Welder
• Grinder
• Transmission jack OR 500lb hydraulic lift table from harbor freight
• Torque wrench
• Dead blow hammer
• Creeper
• Black RTV
• Loctite
• Tons of shop towels especially if you’re messy like me
• This is not an exact list, may have missed some

Collecting dem parts
​

This was probably the hardest and most time-consuming part of the build for me. I would recommend buying the major components first, inspecting the seals and any accessories it came with, and then order the smaller components referencing a parts diagram (included below) once you know what it did and didn’t come with. Example: the front driveshaft I ordered came with the nuts and bolts to connect to the front diff but did not come with the nuts and washers to connect to the transfer case. I had to order that. All prices below include shipping and tax to give you an idea of what to expect. I spent more than most do because this is my daily driver and I wanted parts that would last longer (low mileage transmission, brand new oem cv axles, etc).

• 4wd hubs $325: @05Taco4x4 https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-4x4-prerunner.537080/. Also is the same guy who has the main thread I referenced, makes great quality hubs.

• Front differential 3.73 gearing $315: benzeenautoparts.com. Mine was from an FJ cruiser, make sure you get one that comes with both front mounting arms AND the rear mount. Mine did not come with the rear bc I did not realize there was one (I know I’m dumb) and I had to order. Also, make sure it comes with the actuator and both breather hoses

• FJ AT Transfer case $451: benzeenautoparts.com. Make sure that it is from the automatic FJ. Also, make sure it comes with a shifter base and shifter. Mine did not but thankfully awesome people on TW exist and @Littles gave me his for free! He saved me hundreds, thanks again! You may need some 1/2 steel rod to reweld the shifter, more on that later.

• 2015 Tacoma A750F transmission $1070: https://www.partcycle.com/

• • Trans had 55K miles on it. Make sure it comes with a 6-12 month warranty.
  • I’ve also heard of people converting their A750E transmission with an inchworm adapter but I could not find much info on that

• Front driveshaft with new u joints $138.76: https://www.partcycle.com/

• • Make sure you get the correct one, the manual vs automatic front driveshaft vary in length and are not interchangable

• 4x4 Rear driveshaft with new u joints and upgraded IEDLS bearing $300: @Mech_Eng thanks again! You can also shorten your current driveshaft, more on that in this thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/prerunner-to-4x4-conversion-guide.534480/

• ECGS bushing and removal tool $121.13: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html . May as well replace the needle bearing while the front diff is out

• 10 pin maintained or momentary ON/OFF/ON DPDT switch for ADD $20: https://www.otrattw.net/V-SERIES-SEALED-ROCKER-SWITCH-BODY-ONLY-NO-ROCKER-VJD2U.html . More on this later

• New oem cv axles $639.78: parts.toyota.com

• Exhaust reroute $190: Shaundowntheroad.com

• Mount, seals, and bolts direct from Toyota: parts.toyota.com. I’ll go over the main important part numbers you’ll need. There will be misc bolts and nuts you may or may not need

• • 90311-A0006: $38.18. Rear main seal
  • 00295-00103: $16.25. Toyota FIPG black for rear main seal cover
  • 00295-01281: $17.76. Toyota FIPG orange for mating tcase with trans (EDIT: turns out this is not needed)
  • 90119-08A28 x 8: $10.32. Bolts for mounting transfer case to transmission
  • 12371-0P041: $80.91. New transmission mount (these differ by models, make sure you get the right one)
  • 43525-35010 x 2: $5.48. Locking cap for CV axle nut
  • 90178-28002 x 2: $5.40. CV axle nut
  • 95381-04045 x 2: $1.70. Cotton pin for CV axle nut
  • 90316-A0001 x 2: $52.04. Seals where CV mates up to hub (IMPORTANT)
  • Front diff: front diff part numbers are in the pic above depending on what you need but MAKE SURE you have the stoppers and washers to go on the mounting arms. You don’t want to break you CVs on the first test drive...@Brian422
  • Gear oil for front diff and t case
  • Trans oil for trans
  • Shift boot for the hole in the floor (
    $16 Spectre Performance 6283 Small Shift Boot
    https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Perf...words=spectre+6283+boot&qid=1617766059&sr=8-1) and another for the coin slot, more on that later
  • 120ft of electrical wire and I used ALL of it. I would recommend this
    $15 CBAZY Hook up Stranded Wire Kit 20 Gauge 6 Colors 19.6 feet Each Electrical Wire 20 AWG PVC Wire
    https://www.amazon.com/CBAZYTM-Stranded-Gauge-Colors-Electrical/dp/B073QJ28ZQ?crid=FXQL7ATH8L8T&dchild=1&keywords=cbazy+hook+up+wire+kit&qid=1617766191&sprefix=cbazt+hook+%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-2

Removing transmission​

1. Park on flat ground and CHOCK YOUR WHEELS
2. CHOCK YOUR WHEELS again. A transmission in park does nothing for you with the driveshaft removed
3. Remove rear driveshaft
4. Disconnect negative AND positive battery terminals
5. Disconnect oxygen sensors, electrical sensors, shifter linkage, trans cooler lines (if you have towing package), and breather
6. Make sure the main harness is disconnected from the plastic holders on top. If you miss or cannot reach something, no worries, you’ll have another chance when you lower the transmission
7. Unbolt and remove the starter. You’ll need to disconnect all cables attached to it and the 2 bolts holding it to the transmission. Pro tip: it’s easier to get it out through the bottom rather than the wheel well
8. Remove the plastic trim piece behind the starter, take note of how it is seated, otherwise you’ll spend 10 minutes trying to figure out which way it went. Trust me on this
9. You now have access to the flexplate and the bolts holding it to the torque converter.
10. There are a total of 6 bolts that MUST to be removed prior to removing transmission
11. You will need to rotate the flexplate to gain access to each bolt. I used a plastic push button tool and a lot of ugga duggas to rotate it
12. Becareful not to damage the teeth, I made sure my tool was seated well before applying force. This is why I did NOT use a flathead screwdriver, this tool hugged the teeth and did not slip off easy
13. Once the 6 bolts are removed, the torque converter should spin freely behind the flexplate. That’s how you know it’s ready to be removed
14. Remove the 9 bolts holding the transmission to the engine
15. To get to all 9 bolts, you’re looking at 3 to 4 feet of extensions to get to some of those bolts
16. Get far behind the transmission and try to find the bolts. It’s helpful if you have someone else to guide the socket in the front while you ratchet in the back
17. Position your transmission jack (hydraulic 500lb harbor freight table in my case) and strap down the transmission to it
18. Make sure the weight of the transmission is supported by the jack
19. Unbolt transmission isolator mount
20. Unbolt and remove crossmember
21. Remove transmission
22. It may take some wiggling and pulling. In my case, I used an ATV winch for some help (this aint a toyota dealership, it's my driveway lol)
23. Unplug any wire harnesses you may have not been able to get to
24. Take a break, have a cold one

Rear main seal​

This is a perfect time to replace the rear main seal. You will never get a chance like this again to replace it, may as well. This is a great video I referenced for my seal change https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiSnW_JWBhA&t=299s

1. Remove flexplate. It will turn as you try to loosen it. I stuck a bolt in the empty torque converter bolt holes and jammed a wrench in there to provide resistance
2. Remove rear main seal cover. Some people skip this and use a seal puller tool, I found it easier to remove the cover
3. Pop out old seal
4. Clean up the cover with brake cleaner
5. Install new seal
6. Make sure the flat side is facing out
7. Make sure the surface is DRY, that’s what the manual calls for
8. I used a piece of wood and evenly hammered the seal until it was flush
9. Remove old gasket material from where the seal cover was on the engine
10. Install black Toyota FIPG around the cover
11. Lubricate the inside of the seal and the crankshaft with motor oil to help it slide on
12. Reinstall flywheel, torque to spec

Crossmember​

Definitely the most technical part of the build. You will need to modify your existing crossmember or fab up a new one since the 4wd tacoma’s crossmember is relatively an inch forward and an inch or two down. The exact measurement seems to vary by model, year, engine, etc so make sure you do your own measurements.

There used to be a company, whom shall not be named, that made these ready to ship but they are no longer a thing, there is no good way around this step. I opted to use my existing crossmember.

1. You will need to get your measurements, to do this we need the transmission mounted
2. Go ahead and chop off this section of exhaust, it will be in the way of the new trans and t case. We will have to get it rerouted anyways
3. Prefill the torque converter with ATF, probably about 0.5-1 quart
4. Don’t fill too much, you don’t want to make a mess when you hoist up the trans. It will “double seat” when you know it’s on there good
5. It won’t fall out or move easily but just be sure it doesn’t come loose as you are mounting on the transmission
6. Install new transmission
7. At this stage, I only tightened 4 or 5 of the bell housing bolts. I came back later and put the rest on along with the electrical connections
8. Install new trans isolator mount
9. Mock up crossmember and try to get a measurement on how far forward and how far down the new mount will be
10. Mine turned out to be roughly an inch forward and about two inches down
11. Cut off the top of the original mount like so and use that as your new mount
12. You don’t have to do this but I did not want to have to drill that giant hole again
13. Also, the 4 small holes will not line up if you go this route, new ones will have to be drilled anyway
14. Reinforce the crossmember. i had some ¼ steel I used to beef it up. She’s a bit ugly but she strong
15. Test fit making sure the trans isn’t hanging too low or too high
16. There’s no official gauge to tell that I know of but it should look like so in step 2
17. Also make sure the front driveshaft will have enough clearance. I had to pull my crossmember off again and cut and reweld it
18. Reinstall all trans bolt, electrical connections, cooling lines, etc
19. I did NOT put the 6 torque converter to flexplate bolts on at this stage, in case I had to remove the transmission again

Transfer case and shifter​

1. Remove center console trim and transmission shifter assembly
2. Remove the center console
3. Remove the plastic shifter trim
4. Remove the cup holder trim
5. Remove the 4 bolts holding down the shifter assembly
6. Unlink the shift cable inside the assembly, just pops off to the left
7. You want to have a completely free working space
8. Drill a hole from underneath your truck where the transfer case shifter will be
9. I used this hole to know where to cut later on
10. Install transfer case to transmission
11. EDIT: turns out this is not necessary but couldn’t hurt) Use orange Toyota FIPG around the edges like so before mating
12. Use extensions to tighten all 8 bolts
13. If the top ones are hard to get, try removing the crossmember and steadily lower the trans with a jack until you can reach it
14. Alternatively, you can get to the top bolts from inside the truck depending on the size of the hole you cut
15. Cut a hole for the shifter
16. I took a grinder and went to town
17. Make the hole big enough so you can put the shifter base on and tighten the bolts
18. You will lose one mounting bolt for the shifter assembly this way but it is still plenty sturdy
19. Alternatively, use a 4 inch hole saw instead of a grinder for a cleaner look. I did not do this because I wanted to access the bolts for shifter
20. Route your shifter up through the coin slot
21. Weld up a shifter with the ½ steel rod
22. With the shift angle I used, I had to trim the shifter assembly a good bit
23. Keep in mind, the shifter will wiggle while offroading, give it some room away from the sides of the coinslot
24. 4 lo was also much higher and to the right than I anticipated, and it rubs the right side of the coin slot. Not a big deal to me but nonetheless
25. Also may be a good time to figure out your shift knob. I ended up welding a 12MM bolt to the top of the rod to screw on an FJ shift knob, avoiding having to thread the rod. Shoutout @EatSleepTacos for the idea
26. Seal the hole with sealant and the shift boot
27. I used some 3M waterproof adhesive and screwed down my shift boot on top of it
28. I used sound proofing material to further seal it and reduce noise
29. It’s kind of goofy but I think it works alright

Rear Driveshaft​

I chose to buy a 4x4 rear driveshaft and extend the mounting holes. I used 1/8 inch steel angle iron to extend the holes back approx. 2 inches. After about 2 weeks of driving, the center support started to bend downward. This is probably because it was not design to carry offset weight. I strengthened it with some 3/16 steel plate, I’ll see how it does now.

EDIT UPDATE: I was getting some vibrations, I suspect it was the driveshaft itself and not the mount but I went ahead and shortened my old driveshaft, no more vibes at all. One thing to note, my prerunner used a slip yoke that went inside the transmission so basically it needed to be converted to accept a flange on the end and a slip yoke in the middle of the rear shaft. I just took it to a shop nearby and they did everything, parts included, for $290. Here’s another good thread about shortening the driveshaft:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/prerunner-to-4x4-conversion-guide.534480/

Finalizing transmission and transfer case​

At this point, you should almost be ready for a test drive. Few final things to button up

1. Reinstall the 6 torque converter to flexplate bolts
2. You will have to line up the holes
3. Simple put your hands behind the flexplate and rotate the torque converter until the hole lines up
4. Once you get one bolt started, the rest will be lined up
5. Also, be VERY careful not to drop a bolt inside. You will have to remove the transmission to get to it
6. Reinstall the starter
7. Don’t forget that stupid piece of plastic I referenced earlier
8. Fill up transfer case with oil
9. It will seep out the fill plug when you have enough
10. Pour in new transmission fluid
11. A750F has a capacity of about 11 quarts but your transmission should not be “dry” if you bought it used, there is still some in there
12. I put in about 6.5 quarts before the transmission was properly filled
13. Here’s a great thread on how to check fluid levels since there is no dipstick: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.63851/
14. Also here’s another great reference i…well, referenced: https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/A750F Automatic Transmission/Automatic Transmission Fluid/01700210.pdf
15. Go for a test drive. It’s safe to shift into 4 hi and 4 lo, there is just not front wheel drive…YET!

Front differential​

1. While the diff is out, go ahead and replace the needle bearing with the ECGS bushing. Great upgrade to prevent future vibrations
2. I completely fubar’ed this step. Don’t be like me. This is a great video I referenced: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ4_7G12Esw
3. Install bushing
4. Install new seals if needed (mine looked fine)
5. Remove ADD cover and reseal with RTV
6. Do this if you are keeping the ADD (more on that later)
7. A common failure point on these motors is water seepage
8. Using a jack or hydraulic table, finagle the front diff into position
9. Once you get the back end above the crossmember, the rest is easy
10. Make sure you install the washers and stoppers in the correct order

Automatic Differential Disconnect (ADD)​

If you don’t want to keep the ADD, read this thread for using an FJ tube instead: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/

Or read this thread for keeping your current front diff tube but welding it to the always on position:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/prerunner-to-4x4-conversion-guide.534480/

If you DO want to keep your ADD, keep on reading.

If you want skip making your own switch, here’s a link for a premade wiring harness for $150: https://12thstateoffroad.bigcartel.com/product/add-actuator-harness

Or you can make your own for about $30:

The stock 4wd tacoma uses a 4wd ECU computer to shift both the transfer case and front diff electronically at the same time. We already bypassed the transfer case with a manual shift rod, now we are going to bypass the front diff. The 10 pin DPDT ON/OFF/ON switch will replace the 4wd ECU. It is important you get one with a ON/OFF/ON function as when you flip it on to activate the actuator fork in the front diff, you don’t want the motor continuously running. When activating 4wd, you will flip it on for 1-2 seconds, then move it back to the middle position. When you deactivate the front diff, you will turn it off for 1-2 seconds and flip it back to middle. Here’s an EXCELLENT thread how to do the wiring, go to post#176: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/page-9


If you’re like me and that still did not make sense, @6 gearT444E broke down where each wire goes one by one for me. Huge thank you again! Literally, just follow what he says below one by one and it will work. It’s wired so that the light will only show ON when the actuator fork is in the ON position and the sensor in the front diff detects that so you know it’s actually working. For the “keyed +12v” wires, I used a fuse tap to tap the 20A fuse that says “4wd” below the steering wheel (how appropriate). Ran one wire up to the switch and jumped the two other keyed +12v pins from that one wire. For the illumination wires, you can tap into any green/white wire behind the dash.


Switch pin # - ADD side
1 - keyed +12V
2 - Red wire from ADD connector Pin 1
3 - Pink/Blue wire from ADD connector Pin 5
4 - Light Green wire from ADD connector Pin 6
5 - Black/White wire from ADD connector Pin 2
6- keyed +12V
7 - Light Green/Black wire from ADD connector Pin 3
8- keyed +12V
9 - Illumination Negative
10 - Illumination Positive

This is looking "into" the ADD connector for the pin designations.


EDIT/UPDATE: if you’re wondering the best way to use this, what I found is the best way is when I’m hitting the trail, I turn on the ADD and leave it on while I’m offroad, that way I can shift on the fly and not flip the switch every time. When I get back to pavement, I flip it off. Doesn’t seem to matter whether you shift then flip the ADD or vice versa. You can do it while moving or stop but it engages better when slowly moving, I found.

Wheel Bearings and CV Axles​

1. Remove tire
2. Unbolt ABS sensor
3. Unbolt ABS sensor bracket
4. Unbolt brakeline bracket
5. Unbolt brake caliper and bungee cord it out of the way
6. Remove rotor
7. If it is seized on, give it a solid whack from dead blow hammer
8. Remove grease cap (will not reuse)
9. Unbolt hub and remove
10. Set aside dust cover, will reuse later
11. Unbolt sway bar stabilizer link from steering knuckle and disconnect
12. Unbolt sway bar link bracket, helps accessing CV axles
13. Separate tire rod from steering knuckle
14. You don’t need a tie rod separator
15. Remove the tie rod nut and rethread it on the top so you don’t damage the threads
16. Give the end of the tie rod some solid whacks from the big friendly hammer, it’ll pop right out
17. Separate the lower arm from the steering knuckle. It’s the two bolts, don’t mess with the uniball
18. Install the 90316-A0001 hub seals facing inward
19. Insert CV axle inboard joint into the diff
20. It helps to grease the C clip if you are having trouble getting it in
21. I had to hold the CV axle straight while someone else hammered it in with the deadblow hammer
22. Insert CV axle outboard joint through the steering knuckle
23. Reinstall sway bar and stabilizer link
24. Reinstall tie rod
25. Reinstall lower arm
26. Install 4x4 hubs with dust cover in between
27. You will see the cv axle has a gap on the backside of the hub. This is ok, we will tighten it up in just a second
28. Install rotor
29. Install ABS sensor, brakeline bracket, and brake caliper
30. Torque the axle nut to 173 ft/lbs.
31. There should be no gap on the backside of the hub now
32. Place locking cap on and lock with cotter pin
33. Install grease cap
34. Reinstall tire
35. Repeat for the other side
36. Fill front diff with oil until it seeps from the fill plug
37. The plugs uses a 10mm Allen wrench (nice one Toyota)

Last thing to do is install the front driveshaft. At this point you should have a functioning 4wd truck, you can test drive it to the exhaust shop for the reroute.


You can also wire up the transfer case lights to display on your dash. I tried but could not get them to work, probably because I tried to use bare wire instead of a pin in the switch. It’s recommended to get the wires wired up and ready BEFORE installing the transfer case as it will be hard to wire them while it’s mounted. This thread has a good writeup for that: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/prerunner-to-4x4-conversion-guide.534480/


The last piece of the puzzle will be making the shift boot look good. I drilled holes on the side of the coinslot and tied it down with zip ties. Some people use gorilla tape. The shift boot I ordered wasn’t perfect but I’m happy with it, link below. It’s good enough. Also keep in mind not to drill through your finger while doing this, it hurts.

$9 Gear Shift Boot Cover,Car Gear Shift Knob Gaiter Boot PU Leather Cover Replacement for

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S68934W?ie=UTF8

Closing thoughts:

Once I had all my parts, it took me 4 weeks exactly to have a working 4wd truck. This was working sun up to sun down on weekends and working on it after work for a few hours every other night. It was a TON of physical labor. I like to think I am in pretty good physical shape and I was exhausted every weekend. You will be limping into work every Monday. Labor intensive project for sure but not too technical. I’m glad I went this route over selling and buying another Tacoma.

If I forgot something or some of the info is wrong, let me know and I will edit or add things. If you need help with your conversion, feel free to reach out. Enjoy your new 4x4!

EDIT/UPDATE: it’s been 4 months, I’ve put 10K miles on the new parts and no issues whatsoever! I did have some driveshaft vibration issues but I’m not counting that as it has nothing to do with the conversion, my OG driveshaft had 185K on it and it was time for a new carrier bearing. I noticed I lost about 1mpg but that’s to be expected, even with the stock trucks. Couldn’t be happier with the conversion

EDIT/UPDATE 1/4/22: 8 months later I’ve put 25K miles on it. I’ve done a few hard wheeling trips. A 1K mile trip to Kentucky on the KAT trail. A 6K mile trip to Utah/Arizona (a few pics I posted on page 13). Driving it 70 miles each day for work. Hauling thousands of pounds of overweight tree trunks lol All with no issues with the 4wd drive system or anything with the truck. Best vehicle I will ever own that’s for sure


EDIT/UPDATE 12/16/22: almost 2 years later I’ve put 40K miles on it since the conversion, again, no issues whatsoever. Just got back from a 4K mile trip to Utah/Colorado. Used the 4x4 system heavily in deep snow and icy highway conditions. Was shifting in and out of 4wd at 60mph and was doing 75-80mph in 4hi for hours on end. This truck is OP

 

Damn man, I just skimmed through but it looks very thorough. Nice work and great resource for future readers.

 

Thanks that’s the goal! Part of the reason why it took me 4 weeks is because I would be under the truck on my phone trying to figure out how to do things lol

 

Bro! this is gold for the ones starting the conversion. Should be a sticky for sure. I know there’s plenty of threads already but all steps gathered on the same post is magnificent. I’m recording videos for the conversion process and I put together a xls file with all parts number and a spot for check marks and shit.

 

I needed this. Thanks

 

So well done. Nice and welcome to the 4x4 PreRunner crew!

 

Yea man I can’t look at it now but sounds like a great addition!

 

Fixed(file on post no.5)

 

PW protected

 

Fixed.(XLS file on post no. 5)

 

This is Gold!

 

Created an account just to post here! I have been lurking in these forums learning from the many threads on this conversion. To have them all complied and your step by step walk through is an absolute life saver. I started gathering all the parts to convert my prerunner to 4x4 and this past week end got the front diff (From an FJ) and CV axles installed. Next step is to pull a trigger on a transmission and drive shafts.. Already have the FJ transfer case on standby.

Does anyone know if the front and rear driveshafts on a 07 FJ cruiser will be compatible with the 06 Tacoma? Or do I really need to look for Tacoma driveshafts

 

I’m pretty sure the FJ driveshafts will be way too short, unless maybe you have a regular cab.

 

ok....I want to do this conversion at a 3rd grader or below level; first question is for my 06 Tacoma Prerunner SR5...do I need to replace my RC62F Automatic transmission for another or is there any way I can use what I have; the rest I can figure out by using this primo posting!

 

Thanks for the links and part numbers! great writeup! @jowybyo

 

Why do you have a 4wd manual transmission from a 3rd gen in a 2nd gen prerunner? And why do you say it's automatic?

 

@pdaddy this is a sweet writeup man and very detailed, props for taking the time to write it all up! One thing I would add is that there is no need for FIPG between the trans and t-case, although it probably can't hurt. Only spot that uses FIPG on the transfer case is between the front and rear halves, the extension housing sub-assembly and front bearing retainer sub-assembly. Only reason might be if you split the case to install a twin stick setup

 

Like I said, couldn’t have done it without ur help ya know, I was wondering why I had to FIPG the transfer case but not where the trans meets the engine. Makes sense now, update incoming!

 

You rang?