LostHusker's money pit

New Truck / work truck



Truck is gone

 

Reserved


Information from @hoverlover so I can read later.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-5725#post-23388049

Some light info

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/amber-drl-boards-sold-out.692948/#post-24505043

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-were-good.411172/page-1527#post-16613947

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/retrofit-headlight-parts.647477/#post-22470924

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-barcelona-red-tacomas.399327/page-96#post-20766083

Suspension info

http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/newProductAdvice/2016/OME_2016_On_Toyota_Tacoma.pdf

CB/GMRS infö

It does not work with CB as that is HF and in the 26.* to 27.* MHz. GMRS uses UHF (2m band)

GMRS/FRS combo channels:
https://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/FRS/GMRS_combined_channel_chart

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...r-tx-may-2nd-5th.585214/page-42#post-20393345

CB Channels:
https://www.wearecb.com/cb-radio-frequencies-channels.html

There are quad band handhelds that can receive HF, VHF, and UHF but thats a lot of radio. Also, CB operates on AM and HF/VHF/UHF operate on FM. There are reports of quad band radios being able to chat when in line of sight or close proximity to CB on those freqs, but since most quadband radios dont do AM, its really bleed over from the FM side that the CB folks are hearing.

You are better off getting a dual band handheld for GMRS/FRS and any future ham stuff (if you ever do it) and then getting a separate CB radio. Its my mission to get all the folks i usually wheel with off CB. That technology is old, outdated, and reception is terrible. GMRS is crystal clear and really the way to go.


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...se-tow-coma-build.436524/page-8#post-14096398

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-1648#post-18918061

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-1819#post-19093402

Great rear bumper information for high clearance.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-1661#post-18930851


Found this in the DIY section for use on camper shells.

https://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=l+track


Fj case info,,,just good info

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fj-case-in-a-3rd-gen-tacoma.571689/


wiring harness part number to extend it, with tire carrier, factory harness
82182-04020


information for later
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-4461#post-21594088
Leaf spring info
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/best-leafs.630892/#post-21632662


Leaf pack info

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/icon-rxt-leaf-pack.505580/page-18#post-21993032

Carrier bearing information

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-4872#post-22065707

light info

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/has-anybody-smoked-there-oem-headlights.639598/#post-22076597

Radio/speaker info

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ers-key-amp-harness-400.656936/#post-22914614

Spark plug info

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/spark-plugs-due-at-30k.535888/#post-17236138

Mevotech lower ball joints with greaseable zerks

TRD wheel information

Part Number: PTR1835090

Bead lock ring

Part Number: PTR1835091

Bead Lock Fasteners

Part Number: PTR1835093

Brake information

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ng-for-dummies-me.602575/page-3#post-20277534

The FSM says you only need the computer for bleeding when you have touched the master.

BRAKE FLUID: BLEEDING

NOTICE:
Wash off brake fluid immediately if it comes into contact with a painted surface.
If the brake pedal is depressed with the reservoir cap removed, then brake fluid will spatter. HINT:
If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system.
When bleeding, keep the amount of the fluid between the Min. and Max. lines on the reservoir.
FILL RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID
Fluid:
SAE J1703 or FMVSS NO. 116 DOT3
BLEED BRAKE BOOSTER W/ACCUMULATOR PUMP ASSEMBLY HINT: Perform this step only if the brake booster with accumulator pump assembly is removed and/or installed.
(a) Turn the ignition switch OFF, depress the brake pedal 20 times or more to release the pressure from the accumulator.
(b) Fully depress the brake pedal 10 times.
(c) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and start the brake booster pump.
(d) Make sure the pump operates for 8 to 14 seconds.
If the pump does not operate as specified, repeat steps (a) to (c) and recheck the operating time.
BLEED BRAKE LINE



(a) Front brake line
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait until the pump motor has stopped.
(2) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(3) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
(4) At the point when the fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(5) Repeat (3) and (4) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
(6) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.



(b) Rear brake line
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and depress the brake pedal.
(2) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(3) Loosen the bleeder plug and release air.
HINT: Brake fluid is sent through the pump, so keep the brake pedal depressed until the air is completely bled out.
(4) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.
BLEED HINT: Perform this step only if the is removed and/or installed.
(a) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.
(b) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
(c) Select "Active Test" mode on the Techstream.
(d) Connect the vinyl tube to the rear brake caliper.
(e) Loosen the bleeder plug.
(f) Select "TRAC Solenoid (SRMF & SRMR)" to drive the solenoids and bleed air from the rear brake caliper.
NOTICE: Do not depress the brake pedal.
HINT:
Brake fluid is sent through the pump.
To protect the solenoids, the Techstream turns OFF automatically 2 seconds after every solenoid has been turned ON.
(g) Repeat step (f) until all the air in the brake fluid is bled out.
(h) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
(i) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.
(j) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(k) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
(l) Clear DTC See: / Traction Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes.


Offroad model: Front 1.6, Rear 4.2 quarts, i believe the T-case is 1.1 qts


Spark Plug Information

Courtesy of @Redline870

I started on the left side (drivers side) bank of the engine working from front to back. The drivers side is more work than the passenger side but the whole job is a piece of cake none-the-less. I removed all the ignition coils and laid them on the engine cover in the order they came out. I moved on to the right side (passengers side) and proceeded to remove all the coils. When I removed the last coil closest to the firewall (right next to the bright silver high pressure fuel pump), I noticed it was a more brownish color than the other coils. I laid it with all the others for comparison. It was very clearly a different color from all the rest. With all the coils out, I gapped all the new plugs and proceeded to change them out one by one (I don’t like leaving a hole into the combustion chamber for very long). This is where things got interesting...

All the plugs were barely tight, it took a very minimal amount of torque to break them free, I could have broke them free with a 1/4” drive screw driver. When I got to the last plug with the brownish colored ignition coil, I found the spark plug was loose! There was evidence of blow by happening on the plug as well. Oil and fuel have been blowing past the loose threads and onto the ignition coil creating the brownish color and a brown tip on the spark plug (see attached pictures). I’ve always noticed a little spark knock on hot days, I wonder if this was the culprit the whole time. I installed all the plugs, put some dielectric grease on the inside of the coils boots and put it all back together. I cleared the learned values for the engine using VFTuner and immediately noticed a difference in how the truck ran. It runs smoother and has slightly better power all through the RPM range. This loose plug must have been causing a lean condition on that cylinder as well as a loss of compression. I’m glad I decided to change them long before they were due. I think everyone should check theirs as well because I doubt my truck is the only one.

This is the second thing on this truck that was screwed up from the factory, the first was the transmission low on ATF. Is Toyota’s QC slipping it’s what? These big oversights are not confidence inspiring at all. Check out the attached photos for reference.

Pro Tip: if you plan to do this job yourself, don’t fully remove the brackets for the intake plenum on the left bank of the engine. Only remove the top bolts and the 10mm bolt for the AFR sensor harness. Then loosen the lower bolts and just swing the bracket out of the way. It’s way easier than fully removing the lower bolts and then trying to get them lined up when re-assembling everything.

.8mm or .031 if your gap tool is standard. I recommend using the wire type spark plug gap tools and not those circle ones with the progressively thicker ledge like this one: https://www.autozone.com/clamps-and...gauge/autozone-spark-plug-gap-gauge/69933_0_0

Something like this is much more precise:

$9 Wright Tool 9531 Wire Gap Gauge

$12 Wright Tool 9531 Wire Gap Gauge

https://www.amazon.com/Wright-Tool-9531-Wire-Gauge/dp/B0042T7J2C

I personally don't like feeler gauges for gapping plugs because they have a sharp edge on them and I'm paranoid about damaging the electrode or ground strap. The round edge of the wire type won't damage anything and is much more precise than the ledge-type ones. They're supposedly pre-gapped from the manufacturer, but I found all but 1 needed very slight adjustment. It seems rare that plugs come pre-gapped with a high level of precision.

It's an easy job, just read my first post about loosening the lower bolts for the intake plenum brackets but not fully removing them on the drivers side, it will save you some time and frustration from trying to re-install them. Once you can swing those out of your way, the only other thing you'll need to remove is a 10mm bolt for an insulation pad for the coil closest to the firewall on the drivers side and unplug the AFR sensor to move the harness out of your way. It's almost a straight shot straight down to all the plugs, but a long 3/8 extension with a wobble head will make getting on the spark plug socket a lot easier though.

On the passenger side you only need to unplug the high pressure fuel pump to get the coil out closest to the firewall, remove the intake tube for the coil closest to the radiator, and remove a 10mm bolt for the bracket supporting the coil harnesses to get access to the middle coil.

Put a little dielectric grease on the inside of the coil boots before re-assembly and you'll be good to go!


Radio info for later

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-pioneer-dmh-wc6600nex-flush-mount-install.668580/page-3

Front end torque specs ref

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/post-lift-front-end-noise-help.647707/#post-22481561


Front End parts information
Moog EV800529 Tie rod end
Moog ES80895 Tie rod end

bearing information
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-oe-nsk.541565/

 

There are many options that vary wildly depending on budget and planned usage.

And I'm not trying to be rude but there are hundreds of threads just like this littered all over the site. Your best bet if you want information is to read previous posts in the 3rd gen and suspension sections and join the conversation. Don't forget that the advice is worth what you are paying for it as everyone has their own opinion.

What I feel is the better source of info is to start participating one of the BS threads, San Antonio and Austin have them, though San Antonio's is a bit less lively. Figure out who has an opinion you respect, bum a ride from someone with a setup you are interested in, or go to a Meetup and look and cool trucks.

For right now, your truck looks good and it's a mild lift that won't make your shocks implode hitting a pothole. Take some time to learn about your options or even better, get out before we cost you thousands of dollars.

 

Not being rude at all and I appreciate it, and definitely understand the opinion part.

Now as far as saving thousands i screwed myself when I bought the truck, then secondly when I joined the site.

I am trying to get to one of the meets now up in the Austin area so will be able to get some ideas , gosh the wallet is going to bleed, from the group.

 

How much money are we talking about???

I put some Bilstein 6112's & 5160's on my 2016, with 17" wheels and Headstrong progressive AAL. Wanted a small lift between 1.5" - 2". Anything more than that you'll need new UCAs.

Installed that was probably something like $1500 ish parts & labor.

Got more money? Get some King coilovers and full dakar leaf pack in the rear, and total chaos UCAs... Probably be closer to 3" lift, and cost $3k - $4k ish.

 

http://www.headstrongoffroad.com/store/p402/Coil/Bilstein_5100_Kit_w/_Dakars_(HS16BK-1-Dakar).html

 

So question just for clarification and curiosity, what makes Dakars so good? Are they to be used only on small lift applications or what is the limit, from what I have read they seem to be a great replacement over the block lift on the rear which makes sense. Also in regards to coil overs, what is the main advantage over normal shocks, outside of cost?

 

Dakar is just a better leaf pack over stock. Not only does it provide rear lift, but it's better ride/cushion than the stock leafs. Night & day between that and a block lift.... Even a AAL would be better than blocks.

I think coilovers are better than adding a standard shock, because on something the Bilstein 5100's your compressing the factory spring to gain height. While the shock may be better than the stock shock, your loosing some ride comfort due to the compressed springs.... Not sure if it's enough to matter, but it's something.

 

Well changed the thread title name, figured I would just share general crap and things that get done to the truck overall. Well got a new set of shocks that someone ended up not installing on theirs. Super stoked about them, now just need to get a set of Dakar's for it at the same time.
Part # 883-24-007/ 14.65 collapsed 23.02 extended.

 

Just tracking part numbers, end caps for the tonneau cover.

 

Dash part numbers.

 

general pics

 

Very nice!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/texas-classified-sticky.209832/page-1124#post-16052983

 

Did you end up putting these on? They look awesome!

 

Sure did.

 

Damn that looks sharp! Did you sell the used 5160s I saw you mention in another post?

 

Yes, sold those.

These will be sold once I get my new leafs.

 

Well this cleared up the speedo, but the digital one didn't match the analog one so I just changed the settings to not see the digital one. Besides who needs to look at two speedo
's.

 

@LostHusker

Saw these on CL today, not mine, but may be a good pair for your rear shocks!

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/d/fox-25-coilover-for-tacoma-05/6324262120.html