Vibration that I cannot figure out!!!!!

Nice. Thanks.

 

I had 265/75r16 Duratracs....Balanced 'em 4 times in 55,000 miles. They had a vibration in them UNLESS I ran psi above 40. THey acted like they had flat spots....Over-inflating seemed to make them "round".

I put new 285/75r16 Cooper STT Pro's on. The day I drove in for the tire change, the Duratracs vibrated the whole way there. New Coopers ride like I'm on a cloud. 17,000 miles on the Coopers and no vibration yet.

 

Were they "Road Force" balanced? I notice a big difference in Road Force zeroed balance and just zeroed out balanced.

 

Had the same problem . Replaced my shocks and now all is good

 

Road force balanced every time. Last 2 attempts were by a guy (on equipment) that does work on ambulances and fire trucks.

Not the first person I know of who had issues with Duratracs.

 

I had vibration issues with my wrangler authorities at high speeds. Rotated them, it helped a little. I went to get a balance done on them. Guy said I dont want to take your money but, tires like this never really balance out perfectly. Got Michelins now, Smooth as glass.

 

The Duratracs were load range c..

The Cooper STT PROs I have now are lr E....Much heavier tire, much more aggressive tread. At speed, they are as smooth as a baby's ass.....No vibration whatsoever. 18,000 miles since balance. Duratracs are simply a rough riding tire.

 

I am going to get new suspension in a month or two - must have kinda thing - I found out my passenger side is 2" longer than the drivers (ride height). I measured from the top of the shock mount to the bottom of the tube where it's welded to the piece you bolt it. 2" shorter on the drivers, I can't live with that plus my suspension is tired and bottoms out with any weight in the bed over 60lbs.
So yes I will definitely take them out soon, I just don't have the money right now. If that's the cause, I thank you if not I'm leaning towards steering shaft, there's play in mine grabbing it from underneath and rocking it back and forth the top wiggled 1-3mm.

Thanks for helping

 

There are a few things I'm going to check on but maaaaany of those I've checked yes or no to.

wow that's a lot! I've either done, fixed, replaced or know it's not a lot of those but a few I'm going to look into. Thank you!

 

My shudder usually occurs between 25-40mph. It stops if I go faster or let off the pedal. It also only does it in D. If I shift to 4 it does not do it. The shudder has the same feeling of driving over rumble strips. I have a 2006 DCLB SR5 V6 4x2. Thanks for any tips.

 

I suggest starting your own thread
Does gently tapping the brake pedal make the shudder go away . Keep your foot steady on the gas and gently tap the brake pedal .
Next , when was the last time you checked your universal joints ?
What,s your mileage and has your transmission ever been serviced ?

 

I think i actually found the vibration. The intermediate steering shaft. I opend the hood and grabbed the shaft and wiggled on it [lol] and it had some play. so i took that plastic cover off by the pedals and sure enough the ujoint is ugly, and there obviously play in the steering wheel from that. So i'm the most sure to date on this being the cause of the vibration. Now i'm just trying to find a good one for a good price, any suggestions?

 

holy shit man, thats scary, transmission problem?

 

Are you feeling the "vibration" in your steering wheel? If not most likely that's the cause of your clunk when off road. A vibration at highway speeds is from something that rotates at speed. The steering shaft doesn't move enough to cause a buzz. I'd say it's one of the above. Tires out of balance, u joints and/or carrier bearing etc.

Good luck.

 

Yes, tapping my brakes does make the vibration go away. I haven't had my universal joints inspected. The next time I bring my car in for service I'll have them inspected. I'm at about 89k miles, the vibration only happens every so often. I first noticed it at about 70k miles. Yes I have had my transmission serviced. Thanks for the tips!

 

ujoints have been replaced, carrier bearing has been replaces, tires and wheels have always been balanced and rotated [the vibration or buzz has been observed since the day i drove it home] i know the steering shaft doesnt move or rotate, but the ujoint in the upper intermediate shaft is loose. i can wiggle it from under the hood or in the cab by the pedals. I know its coming from the front end, my dads gen 2 has probably 80k less miles than mine and his steering wheel is nice and stiff, mine has some play which i've traced to the upper steering shaft.
i've replaced a lof of things... pads, rotors, calipers, front axle bearings, cvs, seals, main drive shaft ujoints, carrier bearing, rear shoes, shift lever, sway bar bushings, sway bar links.

 

have your ball joints and tie rod ends checked as those could also cause vibration at speed.

 

the ball joints are the only think i really havent done anything with, i had one tierod replaced just over two years ago by the stealership. they would only do the passanger side not the drivers side becuse my alignment was correct on the drivers side but the p.side wasn't. I had them check my alignment 4 seperate times after this [later found it was the steering shaft ujoint was worn not my steering itself. i thought it was odd they wouldent do the work i asked of them to do.

 

Does the vibe go away or lessen when you are turning to the right or the left?

 

I had a similar (and painfully annoying) vibration in my '06 dbl cab that started around 125K, and I chased it with parts the same as you. Mine did end up being the a split issue between the front wheel bearings (or axle shaft support bearing, whatever...) AND the drivers side needle bearing inside the front diff. I replaced the wheel bearings myself (a real PIA - even with a good press), and replaced the needle bearing with a custom sleeve bearing from East Coast Gear supply. If your LH front drive axel is extremely slopply (mine moved at least 1/8" inch in all directions), then you might need to replace it with the bronze inlaid bushing from East Coast Gear Supply. If you go this route, you may as well replace the LH front differential seal as well. Only the LH side is affected and usually has this design defect manifest. They also make a tool that allows you to pull and replace it on the vehicle) and I finally solved my issues. East Coast mentioned that all lifted tacos wear out that bearing eventually. Have added nearly 100K since that and hasn't come back!!

I see where you had the wheel bearings done, but I have to wonder if there is still not an issue. My brother had same wheel bearing issue on his 08 at 156K btw. Good luck!