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LostHusker's money pit

Discussion in 'Other Builds' started by LostHusker, Jun 6, 2017.

  1. Jun 6, 2017 at 6:39 PM
    #1
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    IMG_9714.jpg New Truck / work truck

    IMG_8858.jpg

    Truck is gone

    IMG_6506.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 5, 2022
  2. Jun 7, 2017 at 10:57 AM
    #2
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    Reserved


    Information from @hoverlover so I can read later.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-5725#post-23388049

    Some light info

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/amber-drl-boards-sold-out.692948/#post-24505043


    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-were-good.411172/page-1527#post-16613947

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/retrofit-headlight-parts.647477/#post-22470924

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-barcelona-red-tacomas.399327/page-96#post-20766083

    Suspension info

    http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/newProductAdvice/2016/OME_2016_On_Toyota_Tacoma.pdf

    CB/GMRS infö

    It does not work with CB as that is HF and in the 26.* to 27.* MHz. GMRS uses UHF (2m band)

    GMRS/FRS combo channels:
    https://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/FRS/GMRS_combined_channel_chart

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...r-tx-may-2nd-5th.585214/page-42#post-20393345

    CB Channels:
    https://www.wearecb.com/cb-radio-frequencies-channels.html

    There are quad band handhelds that can receive HF, VHF, and UHF but thats a lot of radio. Also, CB operates on AM and HF/VHF/UHF operate on FM. There are reports of quad band radios being able to chat when in line of sight or close proximity to CB on those freqs, but since most quadband radios dont do AM, its really bleed over from the FM side that the CB folks are hearing.

    You are better off getting a dual band handheld for GMRS/FRS and any future ham stuff (if you ever do it) and then getting a separate CB radio. Its my mission to get all the folks i usually wheel with off CB. That technology is old, outdated, and reception is terrible. GMRS is crystal clear and really the way to go.


    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...se-tow-coma-build.436524/page-8#post-14096398

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-1648#post-18918061

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-1819#post-19093402

    Great rear bumper information for high clearance.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-1661#post-18930851


    Found this in the DIY section for use on camper shells.

    https://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=l+track


    Fj case info,,,just good info

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fj-case-in-a-3rd-gen-tacoma.571689/


    wiring harness part number to extend it, with tire carrier, factory harness
    82182-04020


    information for later
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-4461#post-21594088
    Leaf spring info
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/best-leafs.630892/#post-21632662


    Leaf pack info

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/icon-rxt-leaf-pack.505580/page-18#post-21993032

    Carrier bearing information

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/san-antonio.139967/page-4872#post-22065707

    light info

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/has-anybody-smoked-there-oem-headlights.639598/#post-22076597

    Radio/speaker info

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ers-key-amp-harness-400.656936/#post-22914614

    Spark plug info

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/spark-plugs-due-at-30k.535888/#post-17236138

    Mevotech lower ball joints with greaseable zerks

    TRD wheel information

    Part Number: PTR1835090

    Bead lock ring

    Part Number: PTR1835091

    Bead Lock Fasteners

    Part Number: PTR1835093

    Brake information

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ng-for-dummies-me.602575/page-3#post-20277534

    The FSM says you only need the computer for bleeding when you have touched the master.

    BRAKE FLUID: BLEEDING

    NOTICE:
    Wash off brake fluid immediately if it comes into contact with a painted surface.
    If the brake pedal is depressed with the reservoir cap removed, then brake fluid will spatter. HINT:
    If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system.
    When bleeding, keep the amount of the fluid between the Min. and Max. lines on the reservoir.
    FILL RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID
    Fluid:
    SAE J1703 or FMVSS NO. 116 DOT3
    BLEED BRAKE BOOSTER W/ACCUMULATOR PUMP ASSEMBLY HINT: Perform this step only if the brake booster with accumulator pump assembly is removed and/or installed.
    (a) Turn the ignition switch OFF, depress the brake pedal 20 times or more to release the pressure from the accumulator.
    (b) Fully depress the brake pedal 10 times.
    (c) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and start the brake booster pump.
    (d) Make sure the pump operates for 8 to 14 seconds.
    If the pump does not operate as specified, repeat steps (a) to (c) and recheck the operating time.
    BLEED BRAKE LINE



    (a) Front brake line
    (1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and wait until the pump motor has stopped.
    (2) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
    (3) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
    (4) At the point when the fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal.
    Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
    (5) Repeat (3) and (4) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
    (6) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.



    (b) Rear brake line
    (1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and depress the brake pedal.
    (2) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
    (3) Loosen the bleeder plug and release air.
    HINT: Brake fluid is sent through the pump, so keep the brake pedal depressed until the air is completely bled out.
    (4) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
    Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
    (5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.
    BLEED HINT: Perform this step only if the is removed and/or installed.
    (a) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.
    (b) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    (c) Select "Active Test" mode on the Techstream.
    (d) Connect the vinyl tube to the rear brake caliper.
    (e) Loosen the bleeder plug.
    (f) Select "TRAC Solenoid (SRMF & SRMR)" to drive the solenoids and bleed air from the rear brake caliper.
    NOTICE: Do not depress the brake pedal.
    HINT:
    Brake fluid is sent through the pump.
    To protect the solenoids, the Techstream turns OFF automatically 2 seconds after every solenoid has been turned ON.
    (g) Repeat step (f) until all the air in the brake fluid is bled out.
    (h) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
    Torque: 11 Nm (112 kgf-cm, 8 ft-lbf)
    (i) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.
    (j) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
    (k) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    (l) Clear DTC See: / Traction Control Systems\Testing and Inspection\Reading and Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes.


    Offroad model: Front 1.6, Rear 4.2 quarts, i believe the T-case is 1.1 qts


    Spark Plug Information

    Courtesy of @Redline870

    I started on the left side (drivers side) bank of the engine working from front to back. The drivers side is more work than the passenger side but the whole job is a piece of cake none-the-less. I removed all the ignition coils and laid them on the engine cover in the order they came out. I moved on to the right side (passengers side) and proceeded to remove all the coils. When I removed the last coil closest to the firewall (right next to the bright silver high pressure fuel pump), I noticed it was a more brownish color than the other coils. I laid it with all the others for comparison. It was very clearly a different color from all the rest. With all the coils out, I gapped all the new plugs and proceeded to change them out one by one (I don’t like leaving a hole into the combustion chamber for very long). This is where things got interesting...

    All the plugs were barely tight, it took a very minimal amount of torque to break them free, I could have broke them free with a 1/4” drive screw driver. When I got to the last plug with the brownish colored ignition coil, I found the spark plug was loose! There was evidence of blow by happening on the plug as well. Oil and fuel have been blowing past the loose threads and onto the ignition coil creating the brownish color and a brown tip on the spark plug (see attached pictures). I’ve always noticed a little spark knock on hot days, I wonder if this was the culprit the whole time. I installed all the plugs, put some dielectric grease on the inside of the coils boots and put it all back together. I cleared the learned values for the engine using VFTuner and immediately noticed a difference in how the truck ran. It runs smoother and has slightly better power all through the RPM range. This loose plug must have been causing a lean condition on that cylinder as well as a loss of compression. I’m glad I decided to change them long before they were due. I think everyone should check theirs as well because I doubt my truck is the only one.

    This is the second thing on this truck that was screwed up from the factory, the first was the transmission low on ATF. Is Toyota’s QC slipping it’s what? These big oversights are not confidence inspiring at all. Check out the attached photos for reference.

    Pro Tip: if you plan to do this job yourself, don’t fully remove the brackets for the intake plenum on the left bank of the engine. Only remove the top bolts and the 10mm bolt for the AFR sensor harness. Then loosen the lower bolts and just swing the bracket out of the way. It’s way easier than fully removing the lower bolts and then trying to get them lined up when re-assembling everything.

    .8mm or .031 if your gap tool is standard. I recommend using the wire type spark plug gap tools and not those circle ones with the progressively thicker ledge like this one: https://www.autozone.com/clamps-and...gauge/autozone-spark-plug-gap-gauge/69933_0_0

    Something like this is much more precise:
    [​IMG]
    $9 Wright Tool 9531 Wire Gap Gauge

    https://www.amazon.com/Wright-Tool-9531-Wire-Gauge/dp/B0042T7J2C

    I personally don't like feeler gauges for gapping plugs because they have a sharp edge on them and I'm paranoid about damaging the electrode or ground strap. The round edge of the wire type won't damage anything and is much more precise than the ledge-type ones. They're supposedly pre-gapped from the manufacturer, but I found all but 1 needed very slight adjustment. It seems rare that plugs come pre-gapped with a high level of precision.

    It's an easy job, just read my first post about loosening the lower bolts for the intake plenum brackets but not fully removing them on the drivers side, it will save you some time and frustration from trying to re-install them. Once you can swing those out of your way, the only other thing you'll need to remove is a 10mm bolt for an insulation pad for the coil closest to the firewall on the drivers side and unplug the AFR sensor to move the harness out of your way. It's almost a straight shot straight down to all the plugs, but a long 3/8 extension with a wobble head will make getting on the spark plug socket a lot easier though.

    On the passenger side you only need to unplug the high pressure fuel pump to get the coil out closest to the firewall, remove the intake tube for the coil closest to the radiator, and remove a 10mm bolt for the bracket supporting the coil harnesses to get access to the middle coil.

    Put a little dielectric grease on the inside of the coil boots before re-assembly and you'll be good to go!


    Radio info for later

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-pioneer-dmh-wc6600nex-flush-mount-install.668580/page-3

    Front end torque specs ref

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/post-lift-front-end-noise-help.647707/#post-22481561


    Front End parts information
    Moog EV800529 Tie rod end
    Moog ES80895 Tie rod end

    bearing information
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-oe-nsk.541565/
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2021
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    #2
  3. Jun 7, 2017 at 2:00 PM
    #3
    hoarder23

    hoarder23 Truck fell over

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    Scratches
    There are many options that vary wildly depending on budget and planned usage.

    And I'm not trying to be rude but there are hundreds of threads just like this littered all over the site. Your best bet if you want information is to read previous posts in the 3rd gen and suspension sections and join the conversation. Don't forget that the advice is worth what you are paying for it as everyone has their own opinion.

    What I feel is the better source of info is to start participating one of the BS threads, San Antonio and Austin have them, though San Antonio's is a bit less lively. Figure out who has an opinion you respect, bum a ride from someone with a setup you are interested in, or go to a Meetup and look and cool trucks.

    For right now, your truck looks good and it's a mild lift that won't make your shocks implode hitting a pothole. Take some time to learn about your options or even better, get out before we cost you thousands of dollars.
     
    Biscuits, ChadsPride and Xplosiv like this.
  4. Jun 7, 2017 at 2:52 PM
    #4
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    Not being rude at all and I appreciate it, and definitely understand the opinion part.

    Now as far as saving thousands i screwed myself when I bought the truck, then secondly when I joined the site. :rofl:

    I am trying to get to one of the meets now up in the Austin area so will be able to get some ideas , gosh the wallet is going to bleed, from the group.
     
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  5. Jun 7, 2017 at 10:42 PM
    #5
    Swiftks

    Swiftks Well-Known Member

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    Bilstein 6112 (front) Bilstein 5160 (rear) Headstrong Progressive AAL ShiftSense Pro SumoSprings BakFlip F1 Tonneau Cover BAMF Grille aFe intake w/ scoop Custom Exhaust - URD Y-Pipe, Vibrant Ultra Quite Resonator & MagnaFlow Muffler 4Runner TRD Pro 17" Wheels Wrangler DuraTracs - 265/70R-17 Redline Hood Struts OPT7 LED Headlights (Highs & Lows) Baja Designs Squadron Pro Fog Lights LED Interior Lights Total Chaos Bed Stiffeners TRD Pro Skid Plate TRD Pro Tail Lights TRD Pro Shift Knob @CBoy808 Custom Bedside Decals FormulaOne Pinnacle Window Tint OEM Tacoma Bed Mat OEM Tacoma All Weather Floor Mats Fumoto Valve Amsoil Fluids
    How much money are we talking about???

    I put some Bilstein 6112's & 5160's on my 2016, with 17" wheels and Headstrong progressive AAL. Wanted a small lift between 1.5" - 2". Anything more than that you'll need new UCAs.

    Installed that was probably something like $1500 ish parts & labor.

    Got more money? Get some King coilovers and full dakar leaf pack in the rear, and total chaos UCAs... Probably be closer to 3" lift, and cost $3k - $4k ish.
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  6. Jun 8, 2017 at 7:32 AM
    #6
    TexasTacoma713

    TexasTacoma713 Well-Known Member

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  7. Jun 9, 2017 at 6:42 AM
    #7
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    So question just for clarification and curiosity, what makes Dakars so good? Are they to be used only on small lift applications or what is the limit, from what I have read they seem to be a great replacement over the block lift on the rear which makes sense. Also in regards to coil overs, what is the main advantage over normal shocks, outside of cost?
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  8. Jun 9, 2017 at 8:04 AM
    #8
    Swiftks

    Swiftks Well-Known Member

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    Bilstein 6112 (front) Bilstein 5160 (rear) Headstrong Progressive AAL ShiftSense Pro SumoSprings BakFlip F1 Tonneau Cover BAMF Grille aFe intake w/ scoop Custom Exhaust - URD Y-Pipe, Vibrant Ultra Quite Resonator & MagnaFlow Muffler 4Runner TRD Pro 17" Wheels Wrangler DuraTracs - 265/70R-17 Redline Hood Struts OPT7 LED Headlights (Highs & Lows) Baja Designs Squadron Pro Fog Lights LED Interior Lights Total Chaos Bed Stiffeners TRD Pro Skid Plate TRD Pro Tail Lights TRD Pro Shift Knob @CBoy808 Custom Bedside Decals FormulaOne Pinnacle Window Tint OEM Tacoma Bed Mat OEM Tacoma All Weather Floor Mats Fumoto Valve Amsoil Fluids
    Dakar is just a better leaf pack over stock. Not only does it provide rear lift, but it's better ride/cushion than the stock leafs. Night & day between that and a block lift.... Even a AAL would be better than blocks.

    I think coilovers are better than adding a standard shock, because on something the Bilstein 5100's your compressing the factory spring to gain height. While the shock may be better than the stock shock, your loosing some ride comfort due to the compressed springs.... Not sure if it's enough to matter, but it's something.
     
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  9. Jul 22, 2017 at 5:34 AM
    #9
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    Well changed the thread title name, figured I would just share general crap and things that get done to the truck overall. Well got a new set of shocks that someone ended up not installing on theirs. Super stoked about them, now just need to get a set of Dakar's for it at the same time.
    Part # 883-24-007/ 14.65 collapsed 23.02 extended.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2017
  10. Aug 6, 2017 at 6:38 AM
    #10
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    Just tracking part numbers, end caps for the tonneau cover.

    fullsizeoutput_106f.jpg
     
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  11. Aug 6, 2017 at 6:39 AM
    #11
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    Dash part numbers.

    IMG_1997.jpg

    IMG_1996.jpg
     
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  12. Aug 6, 2017 at 7:40 AM
    #12
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    general pics

    IMG_1988.jpg
    IMG_1989.jpg
    IMG_1991.jpg
    IMG_1993.jpg
     
  13. Aug 6, 2017 at 7:48 AM
    #13
    1BDTACO

    1BDTACO Well-Known Member

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    OME Medium Lift, Fx Pro wheels, Falken at3 285/70/17
    Very nice!
     
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  14. Sep 18, 2017 at 1:49 AM
    #14
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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  15. Sep 18, 2017 at 11:36 AM
    #15
    Diablo6

    Diablo6 Well-Known Member

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    Did you end up putting these on? They look awesome!
     
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  16. Sep 19, 2017 at 3:04 AM
    #16
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    Sure did.

    IMG_1872.jpg
     
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  17. Sep 19, 2017 at 5:20 AM
    #17
    Diablo6

    Diablo6 Well-Known Member

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    Damn that looks sharp! Did you sell the used 5160s I saw you mention in another post?
     
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  18. Sep 19, 2017 at 7:08 AM
    #18
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    Yes, sold those.

    These will be sold once I get my new leafs.
     
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  19. Sep 24, 2017 at 6:24 AM
    #19
    LostHusker

    LostHusker [OP] Just one day at a time

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    Well this cleared up the speedo, but the digital one didn't match the analog one so I just changed the settings to not see the digital one. Besides who needs to look at two speedo
    's.
    IMG_2348.jpg IMG_2349.jpg
     
  20. Sep 28, 2017 at 9:46 AM
    #20
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    BorgWarner EFR 6258
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