Transmission R-A60 manual transmission information . Your 6 speed transmissiom (WRITE UP )

@WhiteTacoJerms

 

@gearcruncher Do you know if there is a specific part of the transmission than can be replaced to up the max torque limit past 345 ft*lbs? Because I knoe there are plenty of guys running much more than that with at most an aftermarket clutch.

 

Awsome, sub for future reference.

 

Hmmm. I just reread this post and decided it did not convey the right message. The big 60mm nut pushes on a crush sleeve between two tapered roller bearings, much like when adjusting the pinion on the rear differential, with the same goal of setting a preload on the two tapered roller bearings. The FSM is total mess describing this step and difficult to understand IMHO.

On mine it took about 165 ft.lbs. just to start compressing the crush sleeve but you have to keep measuring the starting torque of the input shaft on the bell housing side (while in 5th gear) to get the speced preload values the FSM describes. I ended up applying way more than 165 ft.lbs. but you do not set the nut by torque value. The idea is that the nut is tightened to the point that the two tapered roller bearings are neither set too tight or too loose but get a slight pre-load to maximize their life and stabilize the output shaft. On mine I stopped tightening the nut at about 10 inch-pounds of preload on the input shaft.

 

From what I can tell the best modifications to this transmission would be to use the guts from a 2014-2015 transmission, and replace the 2nd and 6th gear with those from the Camaro version. The 2nd gear in the camaro is closer to the first gear in our trucks which I would think would make for a smoother shift. Then the taller 6th gear would be better for highway driving.

 

Who will be the first, ha?
Keep in mind that a number of the OEM parts are drying up for some reason. I had a tough time getting a few things, including a couple of gears, on an early production '14 and had to get them through a back door source directly from Japan. I do not understand Toy's supply chain well enough to know specifically as I was under the understanding that manufacturers were required to have parts available for 10 years following the last production, so IDK.

 

Well, if I happen to find a V6 Camaro in the junkyard and can get a second transmission I might see about making a Frankenbox. Bolt an FJ tcase to the back end of it and you should have a pretty awesome offroading setup.

 

Go for it! I can help with the internals but I have not paid much attention to the bell housing and other external bolt patterns. The Camero and Cadillac for that matter might be the likely donors but check the gear ratios. The 2WD Taco may have its output shaft and output housing similar to those GM cars because of the infamous GM-Toy joint venture that occurred, but is beyond my knowledge base to be sure. The RA seems to be a kind of modular transmission whereas different parts could be used, such as the output and a few gears, depending on the target vehicle.

 

So I have adjusted the clutch to the proper height and free play specs per the tsm... the bearing is still turning and I readjusted for more free play.... what does the brake push rod have to do with any of this ( I have an 09 trdor with all the electronic crap) and how do you go about adjusting to get bearing off of clutch fingers?

 

The bearing turns because it is meant to turn. This TOB story has gone on for years. Clutches without a slave cylinder return spring (like a Toyota) require no clutch pedal clearance adjustment because the TOB is meant to be preloaded and to always be turning.

 

Not to oppose our OP, who I am most certain has more transmission knowledge and direct experience than the rest of us combined, but hydraulic systems such as these only seem to reach an equilibrium state when something physically stops the piston on the slave unit from further passive displacement. In this case it's the TOB against the pressure plate fingers. Remember back in the day, there was a return spring on the clutch fork in many applications in mechanical clutch linkages. On a recent clutch job I did on an 05 Tacoma 4X, I was going to drill the clutch fork to attach such a return spring to a conveniently located bellhousing bolt, though could not make a scratch on the clutch fork as it was hardened so much. Yes, I know dremel/die grinder w a diamond bit, or carbide, but I was far far from home, on a driveway in the rain, and did not have my entire shop complement of tools available.
The setup is the same on Wranglers, and I've done a number of clutch jobs on these, as well as transmission rebuilds and hydraulic systems replacements, and I just figure if the TOB burns out, I'll just pull the tranny and replace them. For me, I haven't figured this to be a huge huge issue. However.......I may do the spring return mod on one of my 3 Wranglers at some point, or on my 2 MT Tacomas. So far, none of them are chirping.

Once I did the detent mod on my '16 MT, I like how that transmission works, writeup on that simple process is somewhere under my forum name. No complaints otherwise about this TOB issue on my 05 Taco or my 07 Taco, all MTs.

 

@gearcruncher
So today I notice a sound coming from my transmission. It sounds like metal rattling ( has a bell sound to it). I hear it mainly when I can't let the clutch out all the way. Like when turning around in a tight driveway. When I got home tonight I checked under the truck to see if there was something loose. What I found was, there is a lot of play in the driveshaft. Meaning that I can twist it probably a good 1" to 2". By the way the truck was in gear at the time I twisted the driveshaft. At the same time I hear that metalrattling sound in the transmission area. I have just over 284,000 miles on the truck, and about 50,000 on the clutch and PDM transmission sleeve. Any ideas to what is going bad, I would greatly appreciate the help.

By the way my tacoma is a 4x4.

Thank you, Jeff

 

I read the PDF for removing the clutch master, but how do you remove the master without having all the fluid from the resi drain out?

 

You have to drain the system from the slave cylinder, but you'll still get some drips so it's a good idea to have a towel under the master.

 

Okay, by draining from the slave, does that empty the brake resi? I was going to clamp off the hose from that to avoid the resi going empty.

 

There are two compartments within the reservoir. The brake fluid will not drain with the clutch fluid.

 

I was not aware that my reservoir had two compartments. Thanks! I'll be alright. Going to attempt this in a few hours.

 

Got the master installed and bled the system. Feels better than before! Quite possibly the shittiest part I had to install yet.

 

Changing the master cylinder sucks for sure.

 

In order for me to remove the master, I had to remove the whole clutch pedal assembly which had a few bolts that were only accessible by taking apart the lower dash and fuse panel. The upper bolt was way up in the dash bolting straight down from the top and close to the firewall. Smh