Transmission R-A60 manual transmission information . Your 6 speed transmissiom (WRITE UP )

Does anyone have the part number for the clutch inspection port cover/heatshield for an RA60 (2wd)

 

31101-35010

90311-99010 or 90311-A0006

Jeff

 

Thanks friend.

 

Wish I could of read this earlier. Got an 08 taco 6 speed put the urd kit on no chirp yet but I can see the bearing bouncing around like not enough preload. I call urd service techs and Toyota tech they BOTH told me the bearing should not contact the pressure plate when clutch pedal is released. Sounded like bs to me and after reading this yep... I just hope the urd throughout bearing is the right length for the aisin clutch which I took a luk off to install. I’m going to install the new slave with the return spring to see if that makes a difference on bearing preload. If none of this works when it goes bad I’m getting the hydraulic throughout bearing kit from clutchmasters

 

I find his sad, very sad especially if you are using the quill kit. They both should know better. You need to read the thread by @hiadun to discover that not enough preload in the early stages is the problem. And LUK will categorically tell you the same.

 

I appreciate the help!
Unfortunately I am way out of warranty and the clutch diagrams are no larger available on the other tread for some reason.

Going to go get a Haynes manual so I can see what's going on

 

In order to fix this mess at this point in time , I think I just have to come out with it and design a bearing of my own . I am sick of the fixes that have been released in the aftermarket . They simply dont fix the problem .
I have the fix but requires clutch adjustments once a year . How bad could that possibly be ?
For anyone out there who understands how a diaphragm style clutch works , I believe you will agree that there needs to be more room between the release bearing and pressure plate fingers . Transmissions worked for 80 years this way and all of a sudden the release bearing needs to be loaded ???? I dont think so
I wish there was a couple guys on this website who actually attended a transmission course and understood how a diaphragm clutch functions . Just because the book says the bearing needs preload ,does not mean the bearing needs to be preloaded . What a pitiful design

 

We've been at this for years; you just don't know and you won't give up. To have clearance for the bearing you have to have a TOB arm return spring and an adjustable slave cylinder rod. If you just looked for a moment you would see that these parts are not there on a Tacoma clutch. You are right though in that you understand clutches 80 years ago, but not today's clutches. This is what an adjustable clearance slave cylinder looks like

 

I understand what you are doing and I also understand why you did this . Does it work ? Yes . It makes the noise go away . Good job ! .. You fixed a problem with a series of Toyota transmissions
Does it partially apply the clutch ? Yes
I admit that the factory design has a serious flaw and could be fixed by bringing the design back to the old school design like they did with the Chevy Camero using the identical transmission .
I apologize for arguing , but the design of the clutch hydraulics can be seriously improved to prevent premature clutch release bearing failure as well as premature clutch failure .
This is where I am going with this . I have no interest in making the factory parts work better .The factory stuff is garbage . In the factory setting , As the clutch disc wears down , you cant tell if the clutch is partially applied
I hope you understand

 

Gearcruncher, rather than helping readers of the forum fix their clutches you are on an endless spin about how clutches worked years ago. The amount of money readers of this forum have wasted on clutches and TOB's because they're confused as what to do must be mind-boggling and the chaos you create just keeps that going.

To readers who really want to fix their trucks here's a video that shows what is happening https://youtu.be/MMY8rtry1bQ

Yes, you can build a system with a return spring and get clearance but that's no panacea. With that arrangement every time you shift you have unlubricated metal to metal friction between the initially stationary TOB and the rotating diaphragm fingers. Secondly, the Tacoma clutch has a long neck so it will contact the diaphragm off-center and cause vibration. Thirdly, because of the gap cylinder stroke will be reduced and as the gap opens with wear you may have clutch drag. Guys, fix this the simple way and enjoy your truck!

 

So i have found this post to be contradicting is self about if the release bearing should be touching or not touching the forks. After doing many hour of research i have found the the bearing should be touching the pressure plate forks.

So originally my release bearing was replaced once by Toyota around apx. 30,000Km because of the squeak noise it cause, so I had to pay for half the install after fighting with my local dealership about warranty blah blah blah. It fixed the issue and never had that noise or chatter noise after that.

So now I am having issues with my bearing. Here is what is my situation. Old clutch has been burnt out from me playing hard with my 2009 Tacoma V6 6 speed manual TRD access cab, So i went with URD clucth, Heavy Flywheel, Pressure plate, ARP flywheel bolts, rear main seal and (got my release bearing from my local parts store) So my local transmission shop did the install and i found out the local parts store got my the wrong bearing so the transmission shop ordered OEM one from Toyota (i need to double check if it was a OEM aisin or luk bearing) So the transmission shop did the install said that everything went well and there was no issues.

So after breaking the clutch in after a couple weeks i started to notice a rattle / chattering sound coming from my transmission area, so after playing around my clutch pedal ( pressing in and out ) i notice the sound would go away when pressed in. So I i pinned pointed it was the brand new bearing making the noise. So did some more research and found the TSB on this forum post (Wish I found it before i had my transmission removed), So i decide to try and replace and the Salve cylinder and put in new transmission fluid as well transfer case fluid plus i also flushed out old clutch Dot 3 fluid as well. So after all this i found the noise did go away when everything was cold but after driving for a while and everything got hot inside the transmission i still have the chattering noise but its not as bad. I did notice the slave was had a long rod and the spring was also stronger too but was not enough to stop the noise. I also notice the clutch fork has lost of slop or play moving left or right on the fork support when i had the slave cylinder removed (not sure what is normal play?)

I really feel that there is to much play inside caused and is allowing the bearing rub against maybe the clutch fork ?

So now I am at the point of pulling the transmission my self out and going to replace the the Clutch fork and the Fork support that is in the TSB also compare the brand new bearing with the one that toyota put in @ 30,000KM and try to see what is rubbing and making the noise.

I am to the point of the last straw with this noise. If anyone else can think of something i am missing to replace please let me know.

 

Your best bet is to go with the URD sleeve kit. It stops the noise for most people for some time, some longer. Also heard others say it comes back. I've also seen users on here that report 200k or more miles on the chirping TOB, with no failures. There is a company that makes a hydraulic bearing design, URD used to, but i have seen failures on those that left users stranded. I have decided to just live with my chirping unless it gets so bad i cant stand it and/or wait and see if it ever actually causes a failure that leaves me stranded. Mostly highway for me, so dont hear it driving, just outside the truck.

 

Its more of a chatter or rattle then a chirp sound. I had the chirp noise in the past and toyota fixed that once by replacing my bearing. This is something different. After taking the dust cover off again and wiggling the Fork i noticed its had some play moving from left to right ( not sliding it) about 3mm to 4mm
and I am not sure if that is normal or its lose on the other end of the fork where it rides on the fork support. I wish I had replaced the fork support when I had the transmission out but I didn't know about the USA TSB on the bearing chirp/rattle that toyota posted. I also took a long screw driver and had a listen around the transmission to see where i could pin point the sound is coming from. Please see photos. I noticed it was the loudest just behind the bellhousing where i think its called the output or input shaft running the where the gears are changed. I have a feeling it could be the bearing that the shaft rides on because it gets worse when the vehicle is hot so everything expanse but that doesnt explain why the sound goes away when pressing in the clutch pedal in. So that makes me think it could be the fork support being to small and is maybe rattling inside the fork end.

Here is a couple picks where i notice the sound the most. its seem to becoming from behind the bellhousing and the section behind it. Not sure what that area is called yet. But that sound could be just traveling down the shaft into that area.

 

For anyone looking for an input spline socket that will go the distance. I got a $40 ebay clutch disk and a $20 37mm deep socket. Using a grinder to shave off the 4 rivets holding the clutch disk together and then a 1-5/8" holesaw I cut the center out. Then I simply welded and for $60 all in I have a spline socket that will never fail. If I had an old clutch disk I would have used it and then only been the cost of the socket.
Anyway for anyone with the means it's a much cheaper alternative to the ridiculously expensive Toyota tool.

 

No idea why the pics went crazy there....
Apologies
Fixed it.

 

The Land Cruiser Prado 120 Series 04 - 09 with 1KD Diesel engine and the RA61F received a pull type clutch. This is similar to unit Lexus installed on the RA62 manual transmission is250. Many Supras also had this style. The TO bearing is locked to the clutch fingers, but is a little different from the IS and Supra design. Pull clutches are claimed to have several benefits over the common push style, including better disengagement, feel, and lower effort.

Could we convert? Probably. Would it be worth the hassle? Good question.

 

EDIT: I take it back, it was a typo, haha.

Jeff

 

Looking for advice/suggestions:

2011 TRDOR 6-Speed I bought with just under 100k miles on it. I changed oil in both diffs, transfer case and transmission at that time. Just past 150k so I changed all 4 again. On the trans, I noticed something I can't explain. There is a piece of foam that covers the top of the trans and it was soaked in oil. I couldn't tell if it was motor oil or gear oil. I loose about 1/2 quart of oil between changes and the trans did not seem to be low when I drained it. Could the rear main seal be leaking onto the foam? There's no oil on the garage under the truck so I don't think I'm losing much but I cant see where it's coming from.

 

My guess would be an engine oil leak from higher up, such as near the back of the valve covers. It would be unlikely that a rear main seal would cause oil to get up that high.

Jeff

 

Sorry for dumb question but I'm in process of getting a new MT for my 07 MT OR. Per this message and numerous web sites, the correct transmission is the 33030-35A22 - RA60F which I ordered $$$$. Anyway, while waiting for it to arrive I have old transmission pulled out and cast on the side is A1A AISIN A1. Is this the earlier version of the RA60 and will the transfercase, shifter and other small items be a direct dropin to the new transmission? Thanks for help.