Transmission- 5 Speed automatic write up with pics for second gen 4 liter trucks

THIS POST IS DEDICATED TO THE AISN SEIKI A750 SERIES TRANSMISSION in your 4 liter truck.This is your 5 speed toyota automatic transmission that became available for 2005 and up Toyota Tacomas . This transmission is the only transmission behind the 4 liter engine .
If this is not your transmission , click on my username under posts I have started and look for your transmission .
If you are still having issues , just send me a pm

WHEN PERFORMING A TRANSMISSION LEVEL CHECK , YOUR ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING . Too many members are missing this very important part of the procedure

I try to update this post at least once per week . Keep an eye on my latest edits

Are you here because you may have a problem .
I suggest reading through all the links below before you come to a conclusion . There is a tonne of information listed below . When it comes to transmissions , its better if you take your time and read slowly .

Transgo finally made a kit for the A750 .
These kits are " NOT " designed to make the transmission shift aggressive . They are designed to compensate for internal valve body wear and correct common issues due to design flaws .
It looks like the kit may assist with the early converter clutch application that we are all complaining about . That nasty vibration at 45
FIXES TORQUE CONVERTER SHUDDER




https://www.amazon.com/Transgo-SKA7...id=1504568237&sr=8-1&keywords=A750E+shift+kit


A FREE SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR TRUCK https://charm.li/Toyota/2010/





If anyone tries the kit , could you post some feedback .
Looks like bore drill reamers are needed for this one .
SK® A750WT (with tools)

Toyota, Lexus 5 speed A750E/F, Lexus 6 speed A716E and A960E
Corrects/Prevents/Reduces:
Shuttle; Shuttle Bind up or flair on 2-3 shift; Slips with throttle in 3rd and/or 4th; TCC codes and rough kickdown, due to slow TCC release.
A750-NT (no tools) – this is a parts refill kit for SK® A750WT (includes full instructions)



http://www.ebay.com/itm/A750E-F-5-S...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
Here is where you can buy it


SONNAX PRODUCTS ..WORTH READING
https://www.sonnax.com/units/390-a750f

ATRA WRITE UP WITH PICTURES
https://atracom.blob.core.windows.net/webinars/import/toyotaa750_a761_introduction.pdf

Here is the Sonnax ZIP kit

$209 Transmaxx Sonnax Zip Kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnax-A750E...id=1504568365&sr=1-27&keywords=sonnax+zip+kit


here is the Ratio tech shift improver kit . If you are considering this kit , make sure you stipulate the year of your truck as there are valve body changes . I would be hesitant to install this kit until you speak to Ratio Tech to see if it will work .http://www.motospecs.com.au/assets/...A761E_Series_RatioTek_Shift_Improver_Kits.pdf

WRITE UP .. installing a RATIO TECH shift kit
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ratiotek-transmission-upgrade-how-to.528378/#post-16878478

VERY IMPORTANT ..Watch the webinar .....you are going to learn about your Toyota transmission
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMMTlQPZmqs

Transmission fitment by year:
2005-2007,
2008-2011,
2012+


Before you go to far , take a couple minutes out of your time and read this
Here is a good explanation on how your transmission works . Take a couple minutes out and read it http://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...in-the-pump-pr-converter-cooler-lube-circuits

Pulling the valve body off ?
a jug of this stuff will help you out

ATP Automotive AT-201 Transmission Assembly Lube

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Automoti...Q2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=KJC1P4C2A8VRG45E1EEB



Please do not just attempt to install one of these kits for the first time if you have never been into a valve body .
Send me a pm and I will arm you up with some solid information that I am not allowed to post up at Tacoma World

Fill plug - 90341-18059
Fill plug gasket - 90301-15004

Fill plug - 24mm socket

Nomad valve body kit. What do they do to the hilux transmission ?
https://automatictransmission.com.a...Hilux&series=4.0L+V6+Petrol+with+5+Speed+Auto

Solenoid identification
https://www.transmissiondigest.com/toyota-a750e-electrical-component-variations/

Small valve body parts
https://www.transmissiondigest.com/toyota-a750e-f-small-parts/

Cant get that B1 accumulator out ?
https://www.transmissiondigest.com/a750e-f-a760e-f-h-a761e/

2-3 shift flair ?
https://www.transmissiondigest.com/diagnosing-a750e-f-2-3-flare-after-overhaul/



DIAGNOSING converter clutch shuddering from home .( BRAKE TAP TEST )

When transmission fluid has been stressed to its limits either from stop and go traffic , overheating , towing , or just day to day heating and cooling cycles , eventually the fluid breaks down and becomes less effective in providing the smooth shifting characteristics that you normally find with new transmission fluid .
The friction modifiers in the fluid have depleted


When the Aisn Seiki A750 series transmission was released back in 2003 , the required fluid change interval was lifetime 100K
Now , Under normal driving operations , Toyota says to change your transmission fluid every 60k ,but this does not take into account Towing or heavy stop and go traffic .
Take a guess at why Toyota changed the fluid service interval from 100K and dropped it to 60 K ????

When friction modifiers become depleted , the most common complaint is torque converter shudder . Your torque converter locking clutch works just like a clutch in a manual transmission but its controlled by the computer in your truck rather than foot operation in a manual transmission
That nasty shake you feel at 45 with your shifter in the overdrive position . Your fluid is depleted and chances are the converter clutch mating surfaces have become all glazed up

Here is how you can test for a converter shudder from home .

Allow the truck to warm to operating temp . Your converter will not lock up when its cold .
Place the shifter into the overdrive position and drive until you feel the converter shudder .
Once you begin feeling the shudder , use the " Brake Tap Test " to see if the shuddering goes away .

As soon as you feel the shudder , use your left foot and gently tap the brake pedal about 1/4 inch down but leave your right foot steady on the gas pedal .
The idea here is not actually hitting the brakes but manipulating the brake switch . Manipulating the brake switch tells the computer that you are coming to a stop . Your computer will then command the converter clutch to the off position for a couple of seconds . When the converter turns off , your shudder is going to go away for a brief moment .
Because , you only tapped the brake pedal to manipulate the brake switch and you still have your right foot steady on the gas pedal , the computer in your truck will then command the torque converter to re-apply the locking clutch and your shudder will instantly return .

How to fix converter clutch shudder ? Read the write up as there are many variables that come into play.

Whats your mileage ?
Are you cam gears wore out ?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cam-gears-for-v6-add-power-and-mpg.618266/

Everybody that has shudders calls it a converter shudder but is it really a converter shudder ?
Toyota,s idea to save fuel gets you shifted up to the highest gear possible then they lock the engine directly to the transmission with the locking converter .
A shudder occurs when the clutch inside the converter is commanded on . When the computer in your truck commands the torque converter clutch to apply , a shudder will occur for a split second as the converter clutch mates up against the converter dampener .
If you are experiencing a constant surging or a light bucking feeling after the converter is locked , the issue is no longer considered a converter shudder . The converter was commanded on by the computer in your truck and the clutch inside the converter did its job properly . The converter clutch did not slip as the clutch disc mated with the dampener .

Most members feel surging after the converter is fully locked and this is where things get interesting and you begin to feel it in the drivers seat .
There are hundreds of reasons for surging with these trucks and these tiny issues that cause surging can be incredibly difficult to diagnose . The engine is breaking in , the engine has a very very slight slight misfire , type of fuel , improper balancing of the driveline , a rear tire out of balance by .05 of a gram . a slight warp on the rear brake drums are only a few
When the converter locks directly to the engine, all these tiny issues get amplified X 100 when your sitting in the drivers seat.
Is surging a normal characteristic of the truck as the dealerships state ? it certainly shouldn't be .

Here is some excellent info on your converter
https://www.transmissiondigest.com/toyota-flex-lock-up-converter-a-rose-by-any-other-name/

 

I would be interested in how it performs too.

 

Remove your transmission pan before you flush your transmission
Hook78 just put a fantastic write up together showing how to drop your transmission pan to service the magnets and screen .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-2nd-gen-transmission-pan-and-filter.726329/


CHECK YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL . I have seen far too many members checking the fluid level and finding out it was low directly from the factory .Toyota dealerships " do not" check the fluid on the sealed unit when they sell you the truck . With this said ,many of you have been driving with a low fluid condition for long periods of time . If you are reading this post ,you are here because now you have a problem with the transmission and it has slowly taken its time to show itself . Hopefully you catch it before too much damage is done .
For you daily drivers in stop and go traffic ....30,000 miles and your fluid needs a pan drain .If you have overheated your fluid ...You need to flush it .This is directly from Aisn warner who built your transmission , not Toyota .
Here is an excellent write up on how to check it http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/63851-how-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.html

And for heavens sakes , DONT DO THIS https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/halp.33318/

Page 18 of this PDF file shows how to change/check the fluid using Toyota,s guidelines
http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf

And then read here http://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/A750E Automatic Transmission/Automatic Transmission Fluid/01600210.pdf

Having trouble getting into temp mode https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cant-enter-temp-check-mode.369940/

I created a poll to see how many members are finding their fluid low directly from the factory http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...-transmission-low-fluid-directly-factory.html


Changing your transmission fluid ???????????????????
Listen to the guys who do it every day
http://www.atra.com/transmission_service


ROSTRA AFTERMARKET SOLENOIDS
http://www.rostratransmission.com/transmission-solenoids-by-rostra-transmission.php

Keep your throttle body clean . This issue is known to cause driveability issues and a lot of members think its a transmission problem .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-throttle-body-cleaning-2005-v6.94203/

Are you interested to find out whats been done to your truck while it was on warranty or another owner ?
Type in your VIN # and see what,s been done to your truck at the dealership
http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/home



TORQUE CONVERTER CHATTER OR SHUDDER . RUMBLE STRIP
A very common problem with the A750 . A combination of mechanical spool valves and electrical solenoids are used to acheive lock up . Valve body wear is very common and all we as users can do about it is keep our oil super clean
For you guys with high mileage ......Read this http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1774
The SLU solenoid controls your torque converter lock up and is known to cause issues if flushing your oil doesnt help . If you suspect a converter issue , replace the SLU solenoid and change " all" the transmission fluid .The SLU solenoid can also be adjusted . Turning the screw in will increase pressure and possibly fix a shudder . Do not turn it in more than 1 turn .
Tap the brake pedal when you feel the truck vibrate . Tapping the brake will manipulate the brake switch and turn the converter lock up clutch off .keep your right foot on the gas and gently use your left foot to tap the brake . If the vibration goes away for a couple seconds , the lock up clutch or an engine missfire is your issue . This can " usually " be fixed by simply flushing your trans fluid . Some guys are getting owned because they didnt road force balance their tires using the Haweka adpater tsu00296.pdf
There is also a flash available from Toyota T-SB-0044-14.pdf and fluid additives from Lubeguard http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/M465HA.html to stop the shudder but you will need to figure out if you have an engine issue or torque converter issue.
Lubeguard is well know in the transmission industry and works amazing for fixing converter shudders . You can see the product lower down in the threads .I would not post about Lubeguard if it didnt work . This post is designed to save you money , not waste it replacing your torque converter . Find some Lubeguard and "USE IT" You will find that I am going to push this product down your throats .
In the illustration below , its going to show you how to pick out a missfire .That vibration you are trying to pinpoint at a certain speed can be dublicated in your driveway if the issue is engine related .. To diagnose this , use the chart below
Scroll to page 20 and perform a stalltest http://fjcruiser-club.com/docs/RM/A750E Automatic Transaxle.pdf
Page 29 of this PDF explains the Flex lock up circuit
http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/321524-torque-converter-chatter.html

4TH GEAR TO 5TH GEAR UPSHIFT . Reports at TRNI indicate the SLT solenoid has issues .
http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyota/lc_trj12/rm/rm1151e/m_05_1113.pdf
The flash also fixes the clunk upshift to 5th gear http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/344879-tsb-0044-12-pinging-transmission-fix.html
Slipping in 5th https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4521-b1-apply-control-plunger-kit

Multiple solenoid codes https://www.atsg.us/atsg/blog/toyotaa750efmultiplesolenoidcircuitfaults/

Slipping in reverse
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1771-boost-valve-kit

Slipping in all gears
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4452-line-pressure-booster-kit

The dreaded P2716 error code ...Is it the wiring harness or SLT solenoid ? Bod shows you how to check the wiring
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a750f-p2716-wiring-harness-short.527281/

ADDING LUBEGARD

$15 Lubegard 63010 Platinum Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz.

https://www.amazon.ca/Lubegard-6301...qid=1547097336&sr=8-2&keywords=lubegard+60902

DONT BLAME THE TORQUE CONVERTER http://www.sonnax.com/articles/74-Don-t-Blame-the-Torque-Converter-Part-1-

Adding longer transmission breathers before you take your truck swimming
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ase-breather-extensions-2nd-gen-v6-at.492368/

Here is how Toyota fixes the Tundra rumble strip Slip indicator light stays on http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/92474-recalibrating-vsc-why-how.html

LOSS OF REVERSE
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/no-reverse.302139/

Leaking prerunner extension seal ( with pics )
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/203474-something-leaking-2.html


lock up kits for the diesel land cruiser .
https://richardsauto.com.au/product/land-cruiser-100-series-5-speed-lockup-kit/

SHOULD YOU USE THE PARKING BRAKE WITH AN AUTOMATIC
I use the ebrake every day and I have an automatic transmission. Using the ebrake when parking is recommended in the Toyota manual . Living way up North in the snow as I type this , they use all kinds of salt .Its better to use the ebrake than have it seize up solid and pay $500 bucks to have all the cables replaced when its time to sell the truck.
With this said , using the ebrake keeps the rear brake shoes adjusted properly and saves your front brakes from wearing quickly
You're also being very nice to the parking pawl inside your transmission. Lots of people just jam it into park on an incline and don't ever use the e-brake. Or worse, jam it into park when the vehicle is still rolling. An e-brake cable is a cheap fix compared to a transmission problem.
There was mention of using the emergency brakes with auto and manual transmissions and I totally agree .
Use them every time you park
Its one of the best things you can do to keep your truck rolling to a stop smoothly and parking smoothly for many miles to come .
1 - Keeps your rear brakes adjusted properly so when you need to come to a stop quickly you are using all 4 brakes rather than just the two up front
2- When coming to a stop and preparing to park , hit the ebrake which unloads the energy or weight of the truck off of the transmission parking pawl .
Your brakes are going to last longer and you are going to produce less metal to metal wear inside the transmission.
Here is a pic of your parking pawl . That tiny gear and locking assembly with that tiny steel pin are assigned the task of holding your 4000 pound truck from rolling . Add some bigger tires and a heavy bumper and you are asking for grief .
I have replaced many of these .
Look what happens when you dont use the E brake http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...ml#post9531711





FLUSHING YOUR TRANSMISSION
I have serviced approx 4000 automatic transmissions . Does this make me a pro with the A750 series transmission in your Tacoma? NO , but I will try and explain
Years ago , most of the shifting was controlled by hydraulics or mechanical spool valves inside the valve body . When a customer brought their transmission into my transmission shop to have it flushed ( without removing the pan and filter ) there was a possibility of forcing the material from the bottom of the transmission pan into the valve body causing the spool valves to stick .This was very common with the popular GM 700R4 and Chrysler A670
As transmissions get newer , electrical solenoids and sensors are taking place of the many mechanical spool valves in the valve body . Solenoids now have a larger bore. In saying this , flushing a transmission can now be performed with less possibilities of hydraulic spool valves getting all gummed up and stuck.
If you plan to flush , get quotations from a shop that uses a flushing machine with the pan and filter removed .They are the best flushing machine to use because this machine guarantees the pan was removed before the flush was performed .
This method attaches the machine’s line out to the pump intake. The process transfers fluid through the vehicle and into a drainage pan, completely flushing the system. When cleared, new fluid is supplied to fill up the car. This process requires the complete removal of your pan and filter and a new filter and pan are installed at the end. This requires more time, a few extra quarts of fluid (around 20) and costs a bit more, but it is a much more complete, ideal procedure. - See more at: http://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/what-is-a-transmission-flush/#sthash.YDlT9xaq.dpuf
Once the pan and filter have been removed , connect the flushing machine to the filter suction line in the valve body casting , start the vehicle and flush away .
Dont go to a shop that uses a cooling line flushing machine WITHOUT MAKING SURE THE PAN IS REMOVED FIRST .The guy telling you to flush without removing the pan first must have ESP ? How does he/she know the condition of your transmission . Remove the pan first regardless of miles.
All Flushing machines use your transmission pump to mix/force the old oil out and your engine has to be running to turn the transmission pump .Flushing machines will Never flush fluid backwards through a transmission or what some quick lube shops call reverse flushing / backflushing . Your transmission pump only turns one way so dont let those guys fool you into thinking they have a special super flushing machine .
Note: Some service centers use machines that add additional force to blast fluid and/or cleaning solution through the system. This is NEVER a good idea as this can damage seals and/or lodge sludge in places it shouldn’t be as mentioned above. - See more at: http://www.transmissionrepaircostguide.com/what-is-a-transmission-flush/#sthash.B2SaFB52.dpuf
If the truck was mine or a customer of mine , I would get that old stuff outta there .
There are 11 duties transmission fluid carries out inside the transmission .New fluid will help to prevent transmission failure .
1 - transmission fluid is the lifeblood of your transmission.
2- Trans fluid lubricates every part inside the transmission ...at minumum 1000 moving parts which is far more than what your engine has
3- Trans fluid is used to keep your transmission cool
4- Trans fluid is used to transfer hydraulic power
5- Trans fluid is used as a coupling device to transfer engine load to the gearing .
6- Trans fluid acts like a glue when automatic clutches are applied providing additional holding strength.
7- There are more , dont remember the rest hehehe

should you use a fancy in line magnetic filter ?
I would not chance placing a filter in line of "cooler flow" .Its the wrong place to install a metal cleaner .Cooler flow is extremely important and We all know heat kills an automatic transmission . You are not going to know the filter is plugged until the trans temp light pegs out at 310 degrees . You are too late by then and have cooked your trans fluid unless you have a trans temp guage that you monitor on a constant basis .
Did I use them in my transmission shop ? absolutely but only for a two week duration as described in the quote .
The filter in the pan is designed to catch large particulates including metal . Magnets laying in the bottom of your transmission pan accumulate metal over time but there are small particles of steel that the Toyota pan filters allow to pass through . If you install a magnetic in line filter in line with " cooler flow ", sooner or later chunks of metal will accumulate on that magnetic in line filter and restrict the flow .Pop your transmission pan off and clean the magnets , clean the mesh filter and keep your fluid as clean as possible on a regular basis and you will be fine .
For the non believers in the group , call around to a few transmission shops and inquire about the Magnetic in line filter but please talk with a journeyman .
If you have one on your truck , remove it and cut it open to see whats inside .

ENGINE BREAKING and harsh downshifting .
For you guys with higher mileage ....Read this http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1778
Page 33 and 34 of this PDF explains downshifting
http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf
beleive it or not , your truck is designed to save fuel when coasting . When you take your foot off the gas , the PCM tells the injectors to turn off . This is why your truck feels like its slowing down in comparison to older vehicles you have owned . Combine this with the converter remaining locked up and the transmission downshifting while going down hills can really be felt in the drivers seat .

RUMBLE STRIP

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transmission-shutter-40mph.584769/#post-19483125


Here is an excellent write up on how to replace fluid wether it be a pan drop or full flush DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/68462-diy-full-flush-automatic-transmission.html

Transmission resources https://www.atsg.us/atsg/trade-links/

Custom shifters for your auto https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-custom-shift-knobs.334247/

Guy installed new brake lights , couldnt get the transmission out of park
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2006-tacoma-shifting-issue-help.506417/

DIAGNOSTICS
http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf
https://www.automaticchoice.com/uploads/producten/pdfs/Catalogue/aw_a750e.pdf
http://fjcruiser-club.com/docs/RM/A750E Automatic Transaxle.pdf


A750E transmission overhaul kit
https://www.amazon.com/K8600CAWO-A7...0&keywords=transmission+overhaul+manual+A750E

parts
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/

DONT BUST YOUR TRANSMISSION PUMP During installation
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2006-tacoma-trans-problem.540510/

Superduty transmission mount http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/4x-innovations/93081-tacoma-super-duty-transmission-mount.html

Solid motor mounts and transmission mounts
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ted-solid-motor-mounts-for-sale.406631/page-4





Here is a list of Sonnax valve body parts as well .



look here https://s3.amazonaws.com/sonnax-dev/uploads/unit/valve_body_layout/249/VBL-Toyota-A750EF.pdf

Type in Toyota and then the model # of the transmission A750E



Truck slams into gear .http://bluegrasstoday.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/a750e_shudder.pdf

Priced out a new trans at Toyota using a 2010 as an example . They wack us $1000 for the core charge

Description MSRP Price Your Price Core Price Qty Total Cost Mechanical Catalog - 2010 - Toyota - Tacoma
automatic transmission, transmission Tacoma 4.0L 4WD $2,914.03 $2,640.11 $1,000.00 $3,640.11 Sub Total: $3,640.11 Estimated Shipping: $0.00 Total: $3,640.11

Labor time guide shows 27.6 hours to remove, completely disassemble, clean, rebuild, and reinstall your transmission. That is just the labor.

Installing an IPT valve body Write Up with pics
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ipt-valve-body-finally-installed.318077/


GEARS MAGAZINE http://www.gearsmagazine.com/resources/issues/e457d_2010_4_all.pdf

Here is a picture of a cut away http://etereman.com/blog/toyota-aut...-problems-with-the-toyota-a750e-transmission/

Automatic Transmission Service Group https://www.atsg.us/atsg/toy-a750e.html

https://www.atsg.us/atsg/new-releases-2/toy-a750e.html

Parts catologue https://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/aw_a750e.pdf

Common problems http://etereman.com/blog/toyota-aut...-problems-with-the-toyota-a750e-transmission/

common problems http://etereman.com/blog/toyota-aut...-problems-with-the-toyota-a750e-transmission/

Transmission Cross reference data base http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-...-Database.asp?Transmission=A44D#axzz2xU0i16Pr

Fixing P0776
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/auto-trans-not-shifting-passed-3rd.695647/

How to get transmission temps on Fusion app for iOS
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-get-transmission-temps-on-fusion-app-for-ios.359279/


Ebook http://www.gobookee.org/get_book.ph...BTkQgQTc1MEYgQVVUT01BVElDIFRSQU5TTUlTU0lPTg==

P0776 Doesnt shift past 3rd gear
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/auto-trans-not-shifting-passed-3rd.695647/


Parts http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/A750E.html

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS AND RECALLS
http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/60/106020aF.html

Here is the parts list and prices 2013 Toyota Tacoma Pickup.pdf

P2716 internal wiring harness short
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a750f-p2716-wiring-harness-short.527281/
removal and install : Please take your time and be carefull
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2006-tacoma-trans-problem.540510/

Axle wrap and clunking solved http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...-lurch-stopping-started-axle-wrap-solved.html

REBUILD YOUR DRIVESHAFT CHEAP
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ilt-driveshaft-doesnt-need-2.html#post8467549

Vibrating Tacoma http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...tion-when-accelerating-stop-anyone-fixed.html
Drive Shaft Vibrations Solved Step-by-Step

HOW TO DIAGNOSE 4X4 ACTUATOR http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/263525-how-trouble-shoot-4x4-actuator.html


http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/244535-drive-shaft-vibrations-solved-step-step.html

2015 trucks only ...Check engine light must be illuminated . Code PO11B
Trucks shifting hard tsb 0110-15
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=192023

Rough shifting into 5th gear
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...omatic-trans-rough-shift-into-5th-gear-3.html

ECT control http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf

BAD DRIVING HABITS - selecting forward while the transmission is still rolling in reverse
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/colorado/369620-slip-indicator-comes-driveway-hac.html

Changing the light on your shifter . Write up with pictures
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-automatic-shifter-indicator-lamp.22332/




TORQE SPEC GUIDE
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/318116-torque-spec-guide.html


2005/2006 broken frame at engine mount . Specific to 2005 trucks see below :
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/21849-05-motor-mounts-failed-failing.html

Want to add cruise control ? Its dirt cheap

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/adding-cruise-control.584011/#post-19463305

All forms of traction control explained :

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/49311-09-electronic-traction-systems-explained.html

4LO-Trac & ABS Kill Switch

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/257444-4lo-trac-abs-kill-switch-why-why-not.html

A-TRAC/TRAC/AUTO LSD Explained
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...uto-lsd-explained-easy-understand-i-hope.html

TRACTION CONTROL 2009-2014
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/310726-traction-controls-2009-2014-a-3.html

STEERING COLUMN FIX - LOOSE STEERING

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/88077-steering-column-fix.html
STEERING RACK BUSHING FIX
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...tacoma-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.html
Stiff Steering
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/122153-stiff-steering-2.html
STEERING WHEEL SHAKE
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/99531-steering-wheel-shake.html

COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

Complete wiring schematic
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/wiring.html

ABS MODS http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...kill-switch-mod-05-offroad-easy-way-pics.html
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/263525-how-trouble-shoot-4x4-actuator.html
Troubleshoot 4x4 actuator

Every part number for your truck http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/






Front end growling ? try Bamatoys parts http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ub-solution-ive-done-work-you-save-money.html

OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential / diff bearing vibration thread
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...nt-differential-bearing-vibration-thread.html

2nd gen tips and mods
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/7174-2nd-gen-tips-mods-more.html

Read what Spicer has to say about greasing your driveline
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3299-2-DSSP.PDF



diagnostics http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf


Remove and replace valve body walk through http://diy-auto-repair.wonderhowto....r-toyota-a750e-f-ab60e-f-transmission-397919/

TSB - replacement of wiring loom for range sensor 2005 -2009
http://www.scribd.com/doc/18857706/TSB027709

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0280013.pdf

I have overhauled many Aisn Warner automatic transmissions . For the most part , a good reliable transmission producer . I beleive all domestic and import manufacturers now use this company for transmission applications . Each transmission design has its own bunch of common headaches/ design flaws . Some of these headaches or design flaws are engineered into the transmission and some are simply poor design .In our case the A750E has torque converter shudder issues or so they say . Overall , the A750E has a good track record other than this dreaded shudder that some of you experience .
Proper diagnosis is the key .
First things first . Change your fluid
I see a lot of posts at TW where the OP had his torque converter replaced and the issue was resolved , Who manufacturers the torque converter for Aisn Warner ? anyone know ? what compounds are they using on their lock up friction disc ?
Are they applying the converter too early , too late ? partial apply ?
Lock up torque converters have been around for half a century and the function they play within the transmission/drivetrain is designed to save you a lot of fuel .
This new fancy WS transmission fluid as it ages with heat may have something to do with the shudder .
There are more than one Tacoma transmission problem that results in a quote "Vibration or shudder "ANY" transmission problem is called a shudder and dumped into the same pot.

When the ws fluid starts breaking down several things can happen. One problem is the converter clutch disc can glaze up and start causing vibes and shudders . Another problem is the pressure control solenoids can hang up and cause a shift shudder problem. Another problem is the Torque converter regulator valves can wear in their alluminum valve body bores and cause shuddering.

Another issue is really not a transmission problem at all but feels exactly like a torque converter shudder. Engine misfire conditions from a faulty spark plug, weak coil or dirty injector . The missfire goes un-noticed until the torque converter locks up. Using a scanner ,watch the down stream O2 sensor and the short term fuel trim . Pay close attention to the monitors in using mode six on the scanner can give an indication of a misfire. If the miss-fire is bad enough, your check engine light will illuminate .

If you develop a shudder the first thing to do is change your fluid. This alone is usually enough to fix the problem if it's glazed friction material. If the shudder still persists try the Lubegard product next. http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-230/Dr.+Tranny+Instant+Shudder+Fixx

I beleive half of the warranty torque converters you guys had replaced were " NOT " actually converter issues but a direct condition of the WS transmission fluid breaking down .

Shifter stuck in park http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ven-override-park-lock-solenoid-failed-2.html

GO HERE FOR DIAGNOSTICS http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html
A750E Automatic Transmission
Automatic Transmission System: Precaution
Automatic Transmission System: Definition Of Terms, Parts Location
Automatic Transmission System: System Diagram
Automatic Transmission System: System Description, How To Proceed With Troubleshooting
Automatic Transmission System: Road Test
Automatic Transmission System: Mechanical System Tests, Hydraulic Test
Automatic Transmission System: Manual Shifting Test, Initialization
Automatic Transmission System: Monitor Drive Pattern
Automatic Transmission System: Problem Symptoms Table
Automatic Transmission System: Terminals Of ECM
Automatic Transmission System: Diagnosis System
Automatic Transmission System: DTC Check / Clear
Automatic Transmission System: Check Mode Procedure, Fail-Safe Chart
Automatic Transmission System: Data List / Active Test
Automatic Transmission System: Diagnostic Trouble Code Chart
Automatic Transmission System: P0705
Automatic Transmission System: P0710, P0712, P0713
Automatic Transmission System: P0711
Automatic Transmission System: P0717
Automatic Transmission System: P0722
Automatic Transmission System: P0748
Automatic Transmission System: P0751
Automatic Transmission System: P0756
Automatic Transmission System: P0771
Automatic Transmission System: P0776
Automatic Transmission System: P0778
Automatic Transmission System: P0781
Automatic Transmission System: P0973, P0974
Automatic Transmission System: P0976, P0977
Automatic Transmission System: P0985, P0986
Automatic Transmission System: P2714
Automatic Transmission System: P2716
Automatic Transmission System: P2740, P2742, P2743
Automatic Transmission System: P2757
Automatic Transmission System: P2759
Automatic Transmission Fluid: Adjustment
Extension Housing Rear Oil Seal: Removal, Installation
Speed Sensor: Removal, Installation
Transmission Wire: Removal, Installation
Park / Neutral Position Switch: Removal, Adjustment, Installation
Valve Body Assembly: Removal
Valve Body Assembly: Installation
Shift Lock System: On-Vehicle Inspection
Air Cooled Oil Cooler: Removal, Installation
Floor Shift Assembly: Components
Floor Shift Assembly: Removal, Disassembly
Floor Shift Assembly: Adjustment, Reassembly, Installation
Automatic Transmission Assembly: Components
Automatic Transmission Assembly: Removal
Automatic Transmission Assembly: Installation
Torque Converter Clutch And Drive Plate: Inspection
Transmission Control Cable: Removal, Installation
A750F Automatic Transmission
Automatic Transmission System: Precaution
Automatic Transmission System: Definition Of Terms, Parts Location
Automatic Transmission System: System Diagram
Automatic Transmission System: System Description, How To Proceed With Troubleshooting
Automatic Transmission System: Road Test
Automatic Transmission System: Mechanical System Tests, Hydraulic Test
Automatic Transmission System: Manual Shifting Test, Initialization
Automatic Transmission System: Monitor Drive Pattern
Automatic Transmission System: Problem Symptoms Table
Automatic Transmission System: Terminals Of ECM
Automatic Transmission System: Diagnosis System
Automatic Transmission System: DTC Check / Clear
Automatic Transmission System: Check Mode Procedure, Fail-Safe Chart
Automatic Transmission System: Data List / Active Test
Automatic Transmission System: Diagnostic Trouble Code Chart
Automatic Transmission System: P0705
Automatic Transmission System: P0710, P0712, P0713
Automatic Transmission System: P0711
Automatic Transmission System: P0717
Automatic Transmission System: P0722
Automatic Transmission System: P0748
Automatic Transmission System: P0751
Automatic Transmission System: P0756
Automatic Transmission System: P0771
Automatic Transmission System: P0776
Automatic Transmission System: P0778
Automatic Transmission System: P0781
Automatic Transmission System: P0973, P0974
Automatic Transmission System: P0976, P0977
Automatic Transmission System: P0985, P0986
Automatic Transmission System: P2714
Automatic Transmission System: P2716
Automatic Transmission System: P2740, P2742, P2743
Automatic Transmission System: P2757
Automatic Transmission System: P2759
Automatic Transmission System: P2772
Automatic Transmission Fluid: Adjustment
Speed Sensor: Removal, Installation
Transmission Wire: Removal, Installation
Park / Neutral Position Switch: Removal, Adjustment, Installation
Valve Body Assembly: Removal
Valve Body Assembly: Installation
Shift Lock System: On-Vehicle Inspection
Air Cooled Oil Cooler: Removal, Installation
Floor Shift Assembly: Components
Floor Shift Assembly: Removal, Disassembly
Floor Shift Assembly: Adjustment, Reassembly, Installation
Automatic Transmission Assembly: Components
Automatic Transmission Assembly: Removal, Installation
Torque Converter Clutch And Drive Plate: Inspection
Transmission Control Cable: Removal, Installation

 

anyone try this out yet?

 

Try changing your transmission fluid first . Cleaning the throttle body and mass air flow sensor have claimed to fix up some funky shifts and dont forget while you are there to clean Idle Air Control valve as well
here is a good link that shows you how to clean these http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/94203-how-throttle-body-cleaning-2005-v6.html


PARTS https://gfxcorp.com/page/2/?s=A750


Here are some good mods
2ND GEN TIPS AND MODS http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/7174-2nd-gen-tips-mods-more.html


Shifter stuck in park http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...-failed-2.html

USE your emergency brake while parking on hills or slight inclines . Its going to make things easier to come out of park when you try and start your truck when you get back in the truck . Sometimes you have to manipulate the steering wheel by hand to get the key to turn

STICKY SHIFTER / SHIFTER IS HARD TO MOVE
Most of us would disconnect the shifter cable from the transmission lever and then verify the cable is free by hopping in the truck and moving the shifter from park to low . We should feel nothing because the shifter cable is no longer connected to the transmission . If the shifter is still tight to move , we know that the issue resides in the cable or the plastic shifter cover . A quick lube job is going to fix that up .

Next , with the shifter cable removed from the transmission lever , try and manually move that transmission lever by hand . You should feel click , click , click and it should be fairly easy to move with your hands . If you cant move it by hand , remove the PRNDL switch shown on page 16 at this link , it shows the switch in question . Spray the heck out of it . Some guys actually have to replace the PRNDL switch becuase of corrosion .The PRNDL switch gets very tight when it corrodes http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf

When the switch is removed , you can spray the seal on the transmission that sits behind the switch to see if there are additional problems with the lever shaft since the lever shaft is also known to corrode .
, then take a small screwdriver and pry the lever seal away from the shifter selector shaft enough to blast some lubricant between the seal until you get the lever to move by hand .Might have to work it back and forth a little but its going to free up . You should have the wheels blocked when you do this .Both of these issues are very common

Next , place the transmission gear shifter in park and " REMOVE THE KEY "
Throw the key on the drivers seat until your done .
Go to rear of truck and manually push it by hand to verify the truck is actually in park . Go back under the truck and check to see if the shifter cable lines up perfectly with the hole in the transmission lever . If it doesnt line up , adjust the shifter cable until it fits perfectly into the transmission lever . The adjustment is under the shift counsole .
Once the cable is aligned with the transmission shift lever , verify the truck will only start in park and nuetral .


Key Fob issues . Older tacomas are well known for wear in the steering column . Sometimes that tiny computer chip on your set of keys doesnt agree with what the computer in your truck gets to see . Grab the steering column and shake it violently as you try and turn the key .
Here is another members contribution to a well known problem
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/gearcruncher-help-or-anyone-else-solved-for-now.460675/page-2

P0705
This covers any normal shifter cable and alignment issues and all diagnostics start on page 53 of this pdf http://fjcruiser-club.com/docs/RM/A7...0Transaxle.pdf

Then read here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/311737-p0705-code-popped-yesterday.htm
.
and here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/solved-need-help-fast-truck-will-not-shift-out-of-park.390784/

Now you know the shifter is free with the truck in the off position .
Now , start the truck and verify you can smoothly shift through all the gears . Has the shifter freed up or is it still really tight ?

If its still tight with the engine running , remove all ground straps and clean them spotless . Add additional ground straps if you please .
I have seen vehicles catch on fire for this very reason .
When the ground wires on circuits get old and corroded , they no longer function properly and loose contact with ground . Guess what your shifter cable just became ? The ground wire from your transmission to the vehicle body .
I have replaced many melted shifter cables . The shifter cable becomes the vehicles ground and the plastic outer shield will actually melt to the inner cable . This is more noticeable on todays vehichles with all the fancy control motors and electronics as they draw much more amperage in comparison to older cars and trucks . With the non metal box on our trucks all we have is the frame and truck cab to rely on for our grounding needs .
A little sand paper used to clean those ground straps usually fixes the problem but you can always add a couple more straps to be safe . Some guys are too late and the cable is fried . Some guys replace the cable without replacing or cleaning the grounds only to have the same issue again .
Let me know if this helped


Transmission drops out of 5th gear
https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/dropping-out-of-5th-gear-yes-theres-an-app-for-that/

2nd gear to 3rd gears slipping

https://www.transmissiondigest.com/diagnosing-a750e-f-2-3-flare-after-overhaul/

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS AND RECALLS
https://www.eautorepair.net/app/TSB...9409&MKN=Toyota&MDN=Tacoma&PS=134217728&MA=15



Read what transmission digest has to say about your electronics
https://www.transmissiondigest.com/toyota-a750e-electrical-component-variations/


Does your transmission slip between 2nd and 3rd gear ?
https://www.transmissiondigest.com/diagnosing-a750e-f-2-3-flare-after-overhaul/



Testing your valve body for cross leaks . Very important
https://www.transmissiondigest.com/vacuum-testing-a750e-f/

 

Interesting

 

Is that Dr tranny ok in ours. I've read they're very picky about the fluid that's in th nd changing the viscosity seems like might cause an adverse effect?

 

Shift kits are nothing but trouble. Don't get one.

 

Only if this one actually made the shifts super firm and crisp ahhhh so awesome lol

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoonman
Shift kits are nothing but trouble. Don't get one.

Spoon , Can you back up your statement ? You have to give the members here at TW some insight .


As mentioned in the original post . These are called shift kits because of the manufacturer . The company has been at it for years and years . In a way , i guess they are a shift kit because they change the original shift strategy designed by Aisn Warner and improve on it .
If you want protection from design flaws in a daily driver , install one of these kits.
I have used the company for years and the recalibration kits do exactly what they say .



If you want a race transmission , install a high stall converter and an IPT performance valve body




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1XdzmjdsPo

 

Drop the valve body and block off the accumulators - very easy to do . The shift will knock your head into the rear window lol . Making a transmission shift hard is actually better for the clutching inside an automatic but can be hard on planetaries and other hard parts within the trans .

When Aisn Warner designed the transmission , they think about all the grandpa,s out there that want a nice smooth shift

Hypertech speedometer calibrator http://www.hypertech-inc.com/products-speedometer-calibrator.aspx

Lets look at some Vibration diagnostics . Anytime someone asks a vibration question , I copy and paste this .
I believe there are at very minimum at least 12 different vibration issues assosiated with the Tacoma and all the vibrations / shudders get mixed into the same pot when members start posting . This leaves the guy trying to fix his truck scratching his head . Process of elimination is the key .

These are some diagnostics to try . If you bring your truck to a shop , they will be trying most of these to narrow your vibration down .
Universal joints need to be lubricated at every oil change
Have you greased your driveline ?http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...rks-total.html
Do you know how to grease your driveline properly http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/...%20FAQ%27s.pdf
Have you slid under the truck and inspected to see if any driveshaft weights have fallen off ?
Have you checked your carrier bearing https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replacing-carrier-bearing.260283/
Does the truck vibrate in park or neutral and does the vibration change with accelerator pedal ? This is a misfire test for your engine
Does the truck vibrate while holding the brakes and hitting the gas - Automatic ? This is also a misfire test for your engine under load
Does the truck vibrate in neutral at a stand still ?or coasting in neutral ?
Does the truck vibrate in 4x4 ?
Does the truck " Only vibrate " from 1st to 2nd gear ? https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vibration-when-accelerating-from-stop-anyone-fixed-it.300155/
Does the truck only vibrate in 2 wheel drive ?https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...differential-bearing-vibration-thread.152173/
Does the truck vibrate with the serpentine belt removed ? Maximum of 4 minutes run time . You are only running the engine to check for a vibe
Does the truck vibrate cold or hot ?
Does the truck vibrate if you select neutral and coast to a slow roll without using the brakes ? What happens when you turn the truck off in Neutral at highway speed ? Can you still feel the vibration ?
Does the truck clunk over bumps ?https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-loose-bed-design-flaw-explanation.388873/
Does the truck vibrate as you are braking ? When was your last brake job ? Consider the front rotors may be warped or the rear drums are out of round .
Does the truck vibrate with weight in the truck or empty ?
Does the truck vibrate while upshifting ? Have you checked your trans fluid ?
Does the truck vibrate while downshifting ? Have you checked your trans fluid ?
When was your last transmission fluid service ?
Is the vibration caused by your torque converter ? Tapping the brake pedal at highway speeds will release the torque converter clutch . You are not actually hitting the brakes ,but manipulating the brake switch . If the vibration goes away you can expect a misfire or a converter clutch issue .
Read here for more information regarding automatic transmission diagnostics
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-pics-for-second-gen-4-liter-trucks.289913/
Now that you have a lift kit installed the truck vibrates . Did you cancel your drive line angles ?
Have you looked at the condition of your tires ? Toyota says to rotate every 5000 miles .Tacoma tires must be road forced balanced using the Haweka adapter on the tire machine tsu00296.pdf
When was the last time you rotated your tires ? Are you using LUG centric aftermarket wheels that are incredibly difficult to balance ? have you considered " HUB centric rings " http://www.amazon.ca/s/?ie=UTF8&key...vptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_7ybe1f1pby_e
Have the balance weights fallen off the tires ?

A good vibration technician can tell immediately if your vibration is caused by the rotating speed of your wheels or by the rotating speed of your driveshaft .
If you go through this list carefully , you should be able to narrow down where the problem is .
The proper and only way to test for bad universal joints is with the driveshaft removed . You cant tell if the universal joints are seized or tight spots with the driveshaft on the truck . You may see play in the universal joints , but you wont be able to properly check the u-joints without removing the driveshaft .All it takes to create a vibration is one seized universal cup and there are 4 cups within each joint .
With this said , you cant tell if that cup is seized with the driveshaft connected .
Removing the driveshaft and manipulate each universal joint by hand from side to side feeling for tight spots as you go is the only way to check for bad u joints
If you beleive its bad motor mounts or transmission mounts , grab a big pry bar and pry at the mounts to see if the rubber is torn or weak .

CANCEL DRIVELINE ANGLES http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...tion-free.html


Want that vibration gone ?
Tome Woods driveshaft
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/single-piece-driveshaft-vibes-be-gone.475797/

PDF files for diagnosing your A750E will be at the bottom of this thread

 

well damn! haha i know on my dad's silverado when he had his transmission flushed they turned up the line pressure so it would shift harder and it definitely does

 

Yes it does . 1/4 turn with a #8 torx driver . nice solid shift !!

Lets have a peek at what transmission coolers do
TRANSMISSION COOLERS
If you do not have a transmission cooler on your truck and you plan to tow or haul heavy loads or you are in heavy stop and go traffic and use 4X4 low a lot , consider purchasing a cooler . The cooler thats built into your rad is designed to cool the transmission with the weight of just the truck by itself .When you are in 4x4 low , your torque converter is usually in the stall stage and creates a tonne of additional heat .You dont have much air flow going through your rad when you are in low range 4x4 .
160 - 200 are considered normal temps providing your engine radiator is functioning properly . If your engine overheats , your transmission will also overheat
Normal fluid temperature in transmission to be 175 deg. F.

Rate of oxidation to double for each temperature increase of 20 deg F above normal (175 deg F). As oxidation rate doubles, useful life of fluid is cut in half.

At 175 deg F life is 100,000 miles
At 195 deg F (20 deg above 175) life is 50k miles
At 215 life is 25k miles
At 235 life is 12k
At 255 life is 6,250
At 275 life is 3,000
At 295 life is 1500
At 315 life is 750

At temperatures much above 300 deg F the metals in the transmission will tend to warp, twist etc. high temperatures causes the formation of varnish deposits which impair or pre vent transmission operation.

At a fluid temperature of 415 deg F fluid life is 30 minutes!

Source: Empire Lubricants Inc.
Consider a

$160 ScanGauge - SG2 Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges for OBD2 Vehicles

scan gauge

Here is the best information for the scan gauge http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...-pressure.html

Ultraguage is now offering transmission temps http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/318340-ultragauge-transmission-temp.html

You could also use the Torque app with an Android phone as a cheap alternative to watch your temps http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/per...d2-reader.html


A picture heavy write up showing a manual gauge install
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/trans-temp-sensor.456998/#post-13594000

$93 B&M 80212 Transmission Temperature Gauge Kit

https://www.amazon.ca/80212-Transmission-Temperature-Gauge-Kit/dp/B0002A596I


This is how Low Pressure Drop technology works::
When Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is cold it is viscous. The unique Tru-Cool design allows the colder, thicker ATF to flow more efficiently through two open bypass channels positioned at the top of the cooler. As operating temperatures increase, the ATF becomes hotter and thinner, It's then directed through the core where it is cooled. Tru-Cool's highly efficient cooling technology combines improved protection against lube failure with optimal heat transfer.

http://www.amazon.com/Long-Tru-Cool-Transmission-Cooler-4454/dp/B005XZXB1M
Long Tru-Cool Oil Coolers offer advanced cooling protection for many towing applications. The advanced technology out performs TUBE & FIN Designs, Delivers up to 15 times less flow restrictions, 30% more cooling delivers maximum heat transfer, Self-Regulating for maximum lube flow protection through start-up, varied temperatures and driving conditions, heavy loads and towing.
Here is Toyotas fluid flow guide ...Look at page 8 on this PDF http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/pdf/A750E.pdf

Installing a new radiator or you need to make sure your cooler is clean ?
Use this product

$20 Lubegard 19001 Kooler Kleen Transmission Cooler Flush, 13.25 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKNH8I?aaxitk=MYxoLs5I4LwRQxZC0Y9EDw

And here is a guy who recently installed a cooler correctly http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st...agram-pic.html

cooler and fan install http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...n-install.html

HERE is the Tacoma World Towing Bible https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-tacoma-towing-bible.4031/

CAN YOU OVER COOL ? Yes . Transmissions are designed to operate at 170ish . There are demulsifiers in the fluid to assist with internal condensation but you still need the steady heat to bake that water off . If installing a cooler , ask yourself what plans you have for the cooler during the winter months .

When you first start your truck in the morning , the transmission uses the heat provided by the engine to warm the transmission .
This results in better fuel economy as well as improved transmission shifting .
With this said , I will always recommend using the factory in line radiator and then place the cooler after the original rad .
There are exceptions to this rule mind you . The strawberry Milkshake effect , a former transmission failure causing the internal rad cooler to plug up or you simply live in an extremely warm area

 

According to Lubegaurd , they have 2 products that are compatible with that poorly designed WS fluid . WS fluid turns black very quickly . In my mind , its the largest cause of many transmissions concerns with the Tacoma . The A750 uses the same friction clutches that they used in the early 1990,s . I prefer Mobil 1 or Amsoil . Red Line synthetic is good as well .
The Dr tranny shudder fix and the friction modifier .
This stuff works wonders . Ask any transmission repair shop . Even used with OEM transmissions and dealerships

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-113/LUBEGARD+Platinum+Universal+ATF+Protectant

 

PLATINUM® Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Protectant with LXE® & SYNERGOL® Technology



The ORIGINAL Universal ATF Protectant that ELIMINATES ATF CONFUSION & THE NEED TO STOCK MULTIPLE ATF’s




For use with any specified ATF recommended by the car manufacturer, such as OEM types and
DEXRON®/MERCON® ATF’s.
(Except Ford Type F ATF or CVT applications)

Enhances DEXRON® III, VI/MERCON® ATF’s to perform like MERCON® V ATF

Enhances DEXRON® III, VI/MERCON® , V ATF to perform like a highly friction modified ATF, such as:

– Honda® Genuine ATF
– Toyota® Type T/TII/TIV
– Mopar® ATF + 3® (7176)
– Mopar® ATF +4® (9602)
– And all other highly friction modified ATF's
​

• Contains all the same benefits as the LUBEGARD ATF Protectant
• Prevents overheating
• Dramatically reduces friction & wear on metal parts and internal components
• Will not alter the crucial sulfur balance in your transmission fluid
• Will not harm yellow metals
• Inhibits fluid oxidation and foaming
• Contains patented Synergol® TMS Technology, a synthetic molecule that tightens the shift cycle without losing the friction modification at lockup, which eliminates shudder
• Eliminates torque converter shudders
• Ensures proper shifts
• Frees stuck valves & keeps them free
• Extends fluid change intervals
• Protects & restores seals for optimum performance
• Conditions & restores seals and o-rings
• Does not contain any harmful components such as zinc (ZDDP)/ash, etc., like other competing products

$13 Lubegard 61910 Highly Friction Modified ATF Supplement, 10 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-619...s=Toyota+tacoma+transmission+torque+converter

 

Slip and stub on driveshaft shown on you tube as cause of take off shudder ?

The guy doesnt explain anything in the video other than showing some play .
That being said , we dont know if the stub portion of the driveshaft in the video is brand new or he has a fresh coat of blue paint on the splines .

# 1 - The splines on the stub shaft use gluide coat . Not blue paint
https://www.machineservice.com/products/driveline-parts/tube-shaft-stub/

# 2 - In the video there is a small amount of grease protruding from the splines
Splines dont use grease , they use a specail lubricant
Here is an example
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/nal-12345879/overview/

# 3 - We know the internal splines on the yoke wear much quicker than the splines on the stub shaft as they are a softer metal





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teLijWLPcBU&feature=youtu.be

 

Reminds me of the old Slick 50 infomercials that used to come on late night on the cheasy cable channels

 

I remember the slick 50 . Dont recall if it worked or not . You wont see Lubeguard on any telelvision commercials . You wont see it in Wally world either . You will see it stocked in transmission shops and in the back of dealerships becuase it does what it says . This product works like it states

Here is the TSB for a sticky prndl switch
T-SB-0277-09

Ratings: (0)|Views: 3,733|Likes: 3
Published by goomba
MIL
See More
T-SB-0277-09August 18, 2009
MIL "ON" DTC P0705
ServiceCategory
Drivetrain
Section
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle
Market
USA
Applicability
YEAR(S) MODEL(S) ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
2005 – 2009Tacoma
Introduction
Some 2005 – 2009 model year Tacoma vehicles may exhibit a MIL “ON” condition with DTC P0705(Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)) stored. Common symptoms withthis DTC can include possible delayed engagement into Reverse or Drive and possible harsh gearengagement when shifting between Park or Neutral into all other gears. Follow the procedure in thisTSB to determine if this service bulletin is applicable and to repair the vehicle.
Repair Procedure Overview
1. Review DTC P0705 Freeze Frame Data to determine if this TSB may be applicable.2. Attempt to duplicate DTC using testing procedure shown in this TSB to confirm TSB application.3. If DTC cannot be duplicated, examine indicated wire harness electrical connector and JunctionBlock for evidence of liquid or corrosion.4. If liquid or corrosion is observed in indicated wire harness connector and Junction Block,replacement of the Engine Room Main Wire Harness and Junction Block connector No. 1 willbe required to repair the vehicle.
Warranty Information
OP CODE DESCRIPTIONTIMEOFPT1 T2
TC9010R & R Engine Room Main Wire Harness& Junction Block No. 14.5 82111-04###8A73
APPLICABLE WARRANTY• This repair is covered under the Toyota Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date.• Warranty application is limited to occurrence of the specified condition described in thisbulletin.
© 2009 Toyota Motor Sales, USAPage 1 of 11

 

Gearcruncher, like yourself, I am not a WS fan either. Can you elaborate more details on why, and what you believe is the better or best fluid.

Personally, I flushed my trans by disconnecting the cooler hose and purging. With Mobil 1 ATF rated for the earlier Tacomas, I went with that and so far it has shifted the same. Probably going to be too slippery for the TC lockup, but so far no shudders or anything odd.

I had read somewhere, that a simple DIY shift mod to firm the shift but can't find it now.

PK

 

Type WS ( World standard ).

$56 Toyota 00289-ATFWS Lexus & Automatic Transmission Fluid WS ATF World Standard, Pack of 4

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=08E775XVR8RP406H02TG
Toyota says its designed for longevity and good for 100,000 miles but service specs according to Aisn Warner who make the transmission use 30,000 miles for the first fluid replacement and 25,000 under severe use
Ask yourself what transmissions require this specific fluid ????? and its only Toyota .

Toyota calls WS fluid a lifetime fluid and doesnt need to be checked .Its not a lifetime fluid . No fluid is lifetime . The only reason they called World Standard transmission fluid a lifetime fluid good for 100K was to get away from enviromental tax fees . Other manufacturers recommend changing their fluid much sooner and have to pay an enviromental fee for every vehicle they sell to the public . Sell a million cars and trucks and the enviromental fees add up quick . Toyota comes up with a lifetime fluid that is good for 100k and saves millions . They did not create a quality transmission fluid , they simply worded it to save enviromental fees . WS is no better than anything you get off the shelf in Walmart in fact even at Walmart you can purchase better quality transmission fluid than WS . Why did Toyota recently decide to change their transmission fluid replacement from 100k down to 60k ? .....far too many warranty issues
The identical clutching , electronic solenoids and lock up torqe converter are used in the A 340E from the early 90,s .
This transmission was released in 2005 with a WS requirement . WS is " NOT " synthetic as advetrised by Toyota . Its a simple blend made in Japan http://www.mitasuoil.com/en/fluid and then there are the North American versions of the fluid .
The quart containers are marked on the bottom with a "CCC" logo, which stands for Consolidated Container Corporation , hoping for a "WPP" that would have been a dead giveaway for Warren or another of the common packaging logos .



The first is by ExxonMobil and is for "TOYOTA WS ATF JWS 3324." Here is a copy of the MSDS
ExxonMobil WS ATF MSDS

The second is by Esso/Imperial Oil of Canada, for "3324 WS ATF" and is linked below:
Esso/Imperial Oil WS ATF MSDS

Few things are interesting:

1) The quart bottles are marked "Made in the USA from domestic and imported components." Maybe Toyota is sourcing WS from both places and bottling it in the USA as being "made" in the USA with domestic and foreign components. Even if the product inside were 100% Canadian, the bottle is still made in the USA and it's bottled in the USA.

2) WS ATD is known also by "JWS 3324." If you search on JWS3324, you'll also come up with another name/specification, "NWS9638."

3) If you search on JWS3324, you'll find its German-made JWS3324, by the RAVENOL Corporation. They call it "Automatic-Getriebeцl T-WS Lifetime," which can be viewed at:

Ravenol JWS3324 ATF

Ravenol notes that the application is the "Aisin Warner Sequential Automatic Gearbox." The Tundra indeed uses an Aisin Warner AB60E/F transmission, depending on if the truck is 2WD (AB60E) or 4WD (AB60F). No luck finding an MSDS for the Ravenol, probably because it's not imported to the USA. Seems interesting that a German company makes a fluid that seems so similar in name to the Toyota product.

4) The rumor is that Toyota WS ATF is a synthetic fluid, but no evidence in the MSDS' to support this. With a flash point of 401 deg F (ExxonMobil MSDS) and 347 deg F (Imperial Oil),not sure a synthetic conclusion can be drawn.

5) The viscosities in the MSDS' match our limited VOA/UOA data here. VOA/UOA's here on WS ATF suggest a hot viscosity of around 6 cSt at 100 deg C. The Imperial Oil data sheet lists a viscosity of 5.45 cSt at 100 deg C. VOA here shows 25 cSt at 40 deg C, and the Imperial Oil MSDS shows 24 cSt at 100 deg C. Interestingly, the ExxonMobil MSDS shows a viscosity of 7.2 cSt at 100 deg C, which seems to differ from the VOA data here on BITOG. (Which, is limited to one VOA. I'm tempted to send Blackstone a sample as another data point.)

6) The 7.2 cSt number shown in the ExxonMobil MSDS suggest a few possibilities. One, the WS spec may allow some hot viscosity "wiggle room," which may indicate that as long as viscosity is in the ballpark, it doesn't have to be exact. Two, the 7.2 number may be in error. Three, the VOA may be in error. Four, the Imperial Oil data may be in error. Right now, not sure we have enough data to draw a conclusion.
http://www.kd5byb.net/Tundra/ATF WS MSDS1.pdf

The WS fluid is nothing special.

KV 100C just below 6cSt
BV -40C about 8500cP
20 hour KRL shear 10% vis loss
FZG a/8.3/90 9 LS
Foam
Seq I 30/0
Seq II 40/0
Seq III 20/0
Seq IV 30/0
The VM collapses massively under thermal stress.

With the high copper corrosion from electrical windings , all i suggest is changing the fluid as often as possible . Its not an issue with the copper windings on the solenoids and sensors but the insulation protecting the solenoids and sensors that breaks down .


I am sorry ladies and gents , but there are far better fluids out there now , directly off the shelf through the aftermarket that superceed the friction modifiers of WS fluid .
Are you going to void warrantee by using a different fluid ? Toyota techs are not looking for proper fluid when they do work to your transmission . Do you beleive they are going to send a fluid sample away ? I think NOT
To add : you can use any transmission fluid that is WS compliant and Toyota Can " NOT " void your warranty . Look for WS compliant on the bottle

Here is a little tip
Automatic transmission fluid is made to give 100,000 miles of service before oxidation occurs at such a rate that change will be required at normal temperatures.

Normal fluid temperature in transmission to be 175 deg. F.

Rate of oxidation to double for each temperature increase of 20 deg F above normal (175 deg F). As oxidation rate doubles, useful life of fluid is cut in half.

At 175 deg F life is 100,000 miles
At 195 deg F (20 deg above 175) life is 50k miles
At 215 life is 25k miles
At 235 life is 12k
At 255 life is 6,250
At 275 life is 3,000
At 295 life is 1500
At 315 life is 750

At temperatures much above 300 deg F the metals in the transmission will tend to warp, twist etc. high temperatures causes the formation of varnish deposits which impair or pre vent transmission operation.

At a fluid temperature of 415 deg F fluid life is 30 minutes!

Source: Empire Lubricants Inc.