BassAckwards' AWD Turbo 2TR-FE

2009 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab
- Timberland mica (6T8)
- 2.7L 2TR-FE
- 5 speed manual (R156F)
- Northwest Fab EcoCrawler
- VF4B FJ Cruiser transfer case (Full-time AWD)
~320k miles currently

Current pictures

Picture of when I first got it/earliest unmodified pic I could find
​

Current mods

Performance:
- TRD brake pads & stock rotors: 3-11-18
- Extended 3" blue SS braided brake lines: 3-11-18
- Metal coolant bypass pipe: 8-17-19
- LCE lightweight 19lb steel flywheel: 12-15-19
- AEM 50-1000 340LPH fuel pump: 12-30-19
- URD external fuel filter conversion: 12-30-19
- AEM 30-4110 AFR gauge: 5-10-20
- AEM 30-4406 Boost gauge 5-10-20
- Hurst/Core short throw shifter: 6-1-20
- 0-5v wire from AFR gauge to MAPECU3 for logging: 11-22-20
- Snow Performance stage 3 water/methanol injection: 12-13-20
- Snow 375ml/min nozzle: 7-22-21
- Devil’s Own 40 micron water/methanol filter: 12-17-20
- Low level water/methanol indicator mounted in stock washer reservoir: 12-20-20
- Sno 40110 water/methanol nozzle holder mounted in 2.75” coupler from Intakehoses.com: 12-23-20
- 3-2.5” reducer from Intakehoses.com for driver side intercooler to charge pipe: 12-23-20
- SNO-810-QC straight water/methanol nozzle adapter: 12-23-20
- Stock washer reservoir drilled for increased water/methanol capacity: 11-2-21
- Vibrant 2690 billet aluminum vacuum manifold: 12-25-20
- 180* OEM Thermostat: 1-12-21
- ARP cylinder head studs: 3-7-21
- LCE billet aluminum oil cap: 3-27-21
- ARP 434-1301 LS1 header studs: 7-16-21
- BassAckwards custom 3" catback w/ Vibrant 1142 resonator, Borla 40349 muffler & custom tail pipes w/ Borla 40364 mufflers: 10-15-21
- Intake resonator removed: 12-30-21
- Clampco T-bolt clamps for intake piping: 1-23-22
- AEM 30-4407 oil pressure gauge: 3-28-22
- ARP flywheel bolts: 4-2-22
- Moroso 85474 Air/Oil separator: 5-29-22
- Custom aluminum hot side charge pipe: 6-14-22
- BorgWarner EFR 7163 single scroll w/ .85 A/R v-band housing: 6-16-22
- TurboSmart TS-0620-4014 adjustable waste gate: 6-16-22
- AEM-21-2019BF dry flow air filter: 6-16-22
- Coolant lines to throttle body bypassed to turbo: 6-16-22
- Torspd custom 321 SS turbo manifold ceramic coated by Polydyn: 6-16-22
- 304 SS 3" midpipe: 6-16-22
- PTP FPRO35-086-01 Turbo Blanket: 6-30-22
- AEM 1-4001 Dryflow pre-filter: 7-27-22
- Aisin CKT065 clutch disc & M-Pact 2200lb pressure plate: 12-9-22
- OEM 4.10 rear gears, Detroit TrueTrac, & Yukon solid pinion spacer: 12-17-22
- 304SS down-pipe wrapped with PTP quartz wrap: 4-1-23
- 4.10 OEM front differential (diff from 2006 tacoma reg cab 4wd VIN:5TEPX42N56Z231513)
- Lexus drain plug 90341-24016 & Lexus fill plug 90341-18060 for front diff: 7-17-23
- FJ cruiser Non-ADD front diff tube: 7-17-23
- Transmission crossmember modified for R156F: 7-24-23
- 3rd Gen Tacoma R156F 5spd 4wd transmission: 7-24-23
- Northwest Fab EcoCrawler: 7-24-23
- Full-Time AWD FJ cruiser VF4B transfer case: 7-24-23
- Core/Hurst shifter for R156F: 7-24-23
- ECGS bushing installed in 4.10 front diff: 2-18-23
- Tom Woods front & rear custom driveshafts: 8-1-23
- Haltech Elite 1500, Boomslang harness, & FiveOMotorsports 750cc flow matched injectors: 1-7-24

Interior/Cab:
- Ultragauge: 6-23-16
- Wet okoles all black w/ Tacoma imprint: 12-25-16
- Custom fridge platform: 4-13-17
- 50Qt ARB Fridge/Freezer w/ insulated cover: 4-16-17
- OEM All weather vinyl flooring: 10-17-17
- ARB CKMTA12 Twin Air Compressor: 4-27-18
- OEM overhead compass/thermometer: 11-15-19
- Lotek a-pillar for 52mm gauges: 5-10-20
- 80Mil Kilmat sound deadener (roof & rear wall) (floor & doors): 11-13-20
- Pioneer AVH-221EX w/ PAC RP4.2-TY11 harness & parking brake bypass: 11-24-20
- Scosche dash kit for double din: 11-24-20
- Factory backup camera wired to Pioneer head unit: 11-25-20
- Microphone for head unit: 12-29-20
- Scosche dash trim kit painted black: 8-6-21
- Glove box organizer: 12-15-20
- USB/Aux plug: 12-21-20
- OEM Intermittent wipers: 12-30-20
- OEM Cruise control: 1-7-21
- OEM 2006 Tacoma leather steering wheel: 1-7-21
- 03-09 4Runner airbag: 1-7-21
- 04-09 Prius clock spring/spiral cable (84306-0E010): 1-7-21
- OEM Bluetooth radio controls (84250-04010-B0): 1-8-21
- Cravenspeed Flexpod gauge mount: 3-28-22
- FJ Cruiser M/T upper shift boot (58808-35300-B0): 8-1-23
- FJ Cruiser M/T lower shift boot (58280-35320): 8-1-23
- Core shift knobs for transfer cases: 8-1-23
- Blue Dog Designworks 3D printed cupholder with cutout for t-case shifter: 8-20-23
- FJ Cruiser A/T t-case shift boot modified to fit custom console: 8-25-23

Exterior:
- Leer 100R: 8-17-16
- DIY color matched rear bumper: 11-20-16
- OEM bed mat: 1-10-17
- Pop-n-lock tailgate handle: 1-24-17
- Pinstripe removal: 2-25-17
- Total Chaos Channel Stiffeners: 3-31-17
- Rear diff breather relocated to driver bedside cubby: 1-14-18
- Cab mount chop w/ BAMF fill plates: 2-24-18
- FJ40 rear mud flaps: 10-26-19
- Thule 58" cross bars: 11-8-19
- Universal 48" wind fairing: 1-26-20
- 12-15 TRD Sport mirrors: 4-12-20
- UWS toolbox TBC-42-W-BLK: 6-12-20
- OEM Toyota Hilux 2.7 badge 75473-0K011: 9-9-21
- Ark splash guards for 1" body lift: 8-15-22
- DIY rotopax mount for 3.5gal fuelpax: 11-12-22
- Vorra65 billet A/C drain line relocate: 4-12-23
- Seibon 12-15 TR-style carbon fiber hood: 5-16-23
- Aerocatch 120-2000 hood pins: 5-19-23
- OEM AWD badge 75444-0R030: 8-1-23
- Camper shell side window replacement made of Lexan: 9-2-23

Armor:
- 4x Innovations weld-on DOM sliders w/ kickout: 2-24-18
- Tube front bumper: 10-16-20

Wheels/Tires:
- FJ Cruiser 8 hole wheels; 17x7.5 w/ 4.85" backspacing & +15mm offset: 7-12-17
- 285/75R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers Load Range C: 9-25-21 & 288,544 miles
- Bora 3/4” wheel spacers: 6-26-22
- 285/75R17 Nitto Ridge Grappler Load Range C matching spare: 8-8-23
- N-Fab spare tire carrier: 10-18-20

Lighting/Electrical:
- Oznium rocker switches: 6-10-16
- 1000w Pure sine inverter: 5-25-17
- Baja designs squadron sport driving/combo amber LED lights: 4-12-19
- Hypertech speedometer calibrator: 12-15-19
- Midland MXT275 radio: 12-29-18
- Inverter, charge controller & ARB compressor moved into cab: 10-19-19
- TYC base model incandescent tail lights 4-13-20
- TYC TRD Sport 05-11 headlights: 8-5-20
- PIAA 510 SMR driving lights: 8-11-20
- Uniden CB radio: 11-22-20
- SDHQ billet aluminum battery terminals: 3-27-21
- Coupe adjustable narrow bridge battery tie down: 3-30-21
- (4) Trail gear 120210 light tabs welded to DTF bumper: 4-4-21
- PIAA 520 crystal ion fog lights: 4-4-21
- Blue Sea 12 circuit aux fuse block: 12-2-22
- Updated AC/Heater blower motor resistor & plug: 12-9-22
- Megacrank MTX 30L AGM battery: 4-12-23
- VoltPhreaks aluminum battery terminal adapters: 4-12-23
- Victron SmartSolar 75/15 MPPT solar charge controller: 4-17-23
- Renogy 100w semi-flexible solar panel: 4-17-23
- 2015 TRD Pro headlights: 5-16-23
- 12v digital voltmeter: 6-1-23

Suspension:
- King 2.5 Extended Travel Coilovers w/ adj & 14" 700lb springs: 8-11-17
- Total chaos uniball UCAs: 8-11-17
- Moog stock replacement LCAs: 8-20-20
- Sway bar removed: 10-16-20
- 1" Toytec body lift & 1" spacers for rear bumper: 8-5-22
- Bilstein 4600 rear shocks: 10-1-22
- 3 leaf progressive 1.5" AAL w/ overloads removed: 10-3-22
- SPC 3 degree axle shims: 8-14-23
- JD Fab +2.25” LT kit: 4-22-24
- King 8” LT coilovers w/ 16” x 600lb springs: 4-22-24
- 1.25" Spidertrax rear wheel spacers: 4-22-24

Towing/Recovery:
- OEM Tacoma tow package class IV receiver hitch: 3-30-17
- Masterlock hitch pin: 5-9-17
- Curt 55513 4 flat wiring harness: 6-5-22
- Hopkins 47185 4-pin & 7-pin connector, custom harness, & bracket for stock mount: 6-30-21
- Tekonsha P3 brake controller: 7-1-21
- Curt 45360 2” drop aluminum hitch: 6-24-22
- Aluminum shackle hitch receiver: 7-5-22
- 30 amp auto-reset Bussmann circuit breaker for brake controller power source: 11-12-22
- 1/2” orange 45k lbs soft shackle: 4-18-23

Old/Removed Stuff:
- Secondary air filter removed
- LCEngineering equal length header: 2-2-19
- SPEC ST703H-2 stage 2+ clutch: 12-15-19
- 80lb 5th injector boost referenced: 11-7-21
- 70mm SC Pulley, 840cc 5th injector & stage 1 idler (around 15lbs peak): 11-7-21
- Pelfreybilt aluminum IFS skid: 5-1-20
- Pelfreybilt aluminum mid/transmission skid: 5-10-20
- Pelfreybilt aluminum t-case skid: 5-10-20
- Custom adapter to fit IFS & Trans skid on PreRunner: 5-10-20
- 2.5" Flex and V-bands added to LCE header & URD midpipe: 2-7-21
- Five-O-Motorsports 550cc fuel injectors: 1-21-22
- Replacement 2005 2TR-FE w/ 110k miles: 10-25-20 @272,115 miles
- Mahle .030" MLS head gasket coated w/ Permatex copper spray: 3-20-21 & 278,450 miles
- URD power pipe: 4-28-20
- URD Supercharger: 4-16-22
- Stage 1 Rotrex 85mm pulley
- LUK 16088 clutch & pressure plate: 4-2-22
- 1” aluminum blocks: 6-10-22
- Front mud flaps removed: 7-1-22
- One Piece Splash Guards: 10-29-17
- Mildly ported throttle body: 12-30-19
- King 2.5 RR shocks w/ adj. built for 1.5" of lift: 7-12-17
- AVS in-channel window deflectors: 7-26-20
- OEM thin lip satoshi grille w/o mesh: 12-12-20
- M-Pact 16-094-ST1X clutch: 6-19-22
- 6 Circuit Blue Sea Aux Fuse Block: 11-19-17
- Paranoid Fabrications Aux Fuse Panel: 11-19-17
- M-Pact 16-094-ST2X clutch: 11-27-22
- 5.29 Nitro gears & Detroit TrueTrac LSD: 11-2-19
- Custom 304 SS 3" down-pipe: 6-16-22
- EverStart Platinum 24F AGM battery: 3-30-21 & 279,082 miles
- Blue Solar 75/15 MPPT charge controller: 5-25-17
- 100w Renogy monocrystalline solar panel: 5-25-17
- OEM Timberland Mica 2011 Honeycomb grille
- 2.7-30V Digital voltmeter: 6-2-17
- 1GR-FE TRD catback w/ extra Borla ProXS muffler: 4-2-23
- Replacement 2007 2TR-FE w/ 36k miles: 6-8-23
- Hurst 0090 shifter stick: 8-10-22
- AVS flush mount hood deflector: 8-13-20
- Wilco Hitchgate Solo High Clearance: 10-28-19
- Center console organizer: 2-3-17
- Redline Goods shift boot: 3-14-17
- Daystar rear shock boots: 7-23-21
- X-Runner style fiberglass tailgate spoiler: 5-10-20
- Black Softopper: 11-15-19
- 102" stainless CB antenna mounted on Caliraised Passenger side mount: 6-1-20
- Spare Cooper Discover S/T Maxx 295/70/17
- Replacement R155 trans w/ 77k miles: 5-17-19
- 61lb 5th injector: 4-16-22
- MAPECU3 & AFR calibrator module: 1-1-20
- URD Type F jumper harness: 1-1-20

Planned Maintenance:
325K
- Replace driver door check arm 68610-04021
- TC UCAs uniball replacements
- Aisin FCT073 fan clutch
- Total Chaos cam Tab Gussets
- Rear brakes

400k
- alternator upgrade- Rockauto Reman McGeorge Toyota New & longer bolt 91553-81060
- starter
- rear wheel bearings

Awaiting Install:
- Billet Fuel Rail for 2TR-FE: install info

Future Add Ons:
- Derale 15865 oil cooler w/ e-fan & Greddy 12401123 oil cooler adapter plate
- AEM Oil temperature gauge
- Outgear solutions rear bumper
- Outgear solution tilted rear bumper
- OEM power mirrors
- Water to air intercooler
- Coilover covers - accutune
- Billet AL ABS guards
- Billet AL bed tie downs
- Powertrays aux fuse panel swap
- DIY OEM keyless entry
- OEM power, heated, & blinker mirrors
- Relocate microphone to OEM overhead console
- Long Range Automotive Fuel Tank (32 gallon)
- OEM keyless entry: DIY Thread

- Door control receiver 89741-04010
- Additional info​

- Custom side pipes w/ exit before passenger rear tire
- TRD OR/TRD Sport seats
- Clazzios leather seat covers
- Speaker upgrade
- 5th Gen T4R front brake upgrade
- Ceramic coating for midpipe
- HPS coolant & heater core hoses
- JD Fab double shear steering tab kit

- JD Fab UCA double shear kit
- JD Fab spindle gussets
- JD Fab 934 CV axle upgrade
- SUA conversion
- Archive garage shock relocate
- JD Fab Howe power steering pump conversion
- McNeil Racing +2" fiberglass front fenders​

- Paint match rear fender flares
- Repaint passenger front fender
- Repaint roof- failing clear coat
- DMZ Rear frame box/gusseting
- TC coil bucket gussets
- - Rebuild fridge platform w/ added storage
- AEM 50-1200 E85 rated fuel pump, ECA sensor, & AN fuel lines
- Coolant temp gauge- AEM 30-4402
- Fuel pressure gauge- AEM 30-4407 or AEM 30-4401
- Oil temperature gauge- AEM 30-4402
- EGT gauge- AEM 30-0305
- Derale oil cooler

- SOS performance rear disc brake conversion w/ sequoia master cylinder
- Snow water methanol weld-in bung​

 

Part numbers & discount codes for reference:

Discount Codes:
URD:
Forummember 5%
Tacomaworld.com 5%

OEM All Weather Flooring:
Thread with install pics/info
Part# for manual transmission access cab is: 58510-04850-B2
Part# for automatic transmission access cab is: 58510-04840-B2
Part# for automatic transmission double cab is 58510-04870-B2
Part# for manual transmission double cab is 58510-04890-B2
- SR5 5 speed Leather Shift Knob: 33504-22140-C0
- Front Doors Weather Stripping for Windows:
RH:68160-04020
LH: 68210-04020
- Nylon Fender Liner/Screw Grommets 90189-A0002
- Front Door Interior Push Clips 90467-A0016-B2
- Access Cab Rear Seat Panel Clips 90467-10161
- 2TR-FE Engine Air Filter 17801-YZZ04
- 2TR-FE Spark Plugs 90919-01191/SK20HR11
- 1GR-FE Engine Air Filter 17801-0P010
- 1GR-FE Spark Plugs N/A 90919-01235
- Cabin Air Filter 87139-YZZ09
- Diff Breather Union 90404-51026
- Diff Breather Plug 90930-03136
- Bellhousing Dust Seal/Cover 11354-75030
- Leer 100R Rear Window Gas Shocks TAG# 51629/C16-06389
- 2.7L Intake S-Hose 17881-0C081
- TRD Performance Brake Pads PTR09-89111
- OEM Brake rotors 43512-04052
- 2.7L Cyl Head Gasket (under valve cover gasket; spark plug seal gasket) 11214-75012
- 2.7L Valve Cover Gasket 11213-75041
- Windshield wiper reservoir 85315-04090
- Oil drain plug crush washer 90430-12031
- Secondary air pump cover 17613-0P010
- R155 Transmission mount 12371-0C140
- Metal coolant bypass pipe 16268-75112
- Thermostat 180*F 90916-03093
- Water inlet housing gasket (thermostat gasket) 16325-76010
- Thermostat housing gasket 16325-75011
- Upper radiator hose 16571-0C120
- Lower radiator hose 16572-0C110

 

Somewhere around this time in 2016, joined Tacoma world, and got the bug.


A few of the first things I did were adding an ARB Bumper (since I live in deer country), color matched the A/C & radio bezels, added a set of PIAA 520's & ARB fogs, Oznium rocker switches, V3 Triton LED Switchback blinkers, auxillary reverse lights, an Ultragauge, and a Leer 100R



added old cb radio my grandpa gave me under the front passenger seat



Side shot of how the color changes in the lighting


At this point, I picked up a used Leer 100R off of Craigslist for 500 w/ thule rails/rack, sliding windows, carpeted headliner, and interior dome light. Got tired of seeing white and decided to try to color match it myself. Was quite a bit of work, but im pleased with the results for only 200 in materials




My shift boot & knob were starting to get worn out so i replaced i them with a redline goods shift boot and an OEM leather shift knob that comes in the SR5 model 4 cylinder trucks


Added some redline tuning hood struts that i got through a group buy on here. If you haven't added these yet and you are in and out of your engine bay frequently, i highly recommend these


Made my own blinds for my camper shell using a roll of reflectix insulation I got from lowe's. Made cardboard cutouts of the windows, then cut them to size and used sticky velcro to attach them to the window frames.




Installed a pop n lock and a KB voodoo tailgate cap. The tailgate cap has been great and its helped keep the rubber gasket on the rear window of my shell from rubbing the paint off my tailgate.


Took a gamble and bought a scooped hood off ebay to see if it would fit. Ended up getting damaged during shipping so i was able to get a refund and they didnt want the hood back, so i took some heat to it and beat it back in shape.


Next up, i made a platform for my ARB fridge for the passenger side in the back of my access cab. Also mounted an ARB 2500 awning to the crossbars on my shell.




Ext travel kings w/ 700lb coils

 

Injectors:
Five0motorsport
Five0motorsport (larger injectors)
Injector dynamics

 

​

 

Welcome sir! Its an honor to have the @ChadsPride as the first to sub my build!

 

Glad to be here!!! ​

 

Here's a shot from out at Garner state park today.


Colorado Pictures June 2018:



On my way up pikes peak










Great sand dunes national park










Royal gorge suspension bridge


Grand lake

 

OH MY GOD THE SHIFT BOOT GOES INSIDE. You just changed my world.
PS subd. Loving the build, very similar to what I've got going on. I'm pretty sure we've discussed this already!

 

yeah, i love the way the shift boot fits, much better than stock! it took some bending and tweaking of the metal wire piece that holds it into place but after taking it in and out 10 times or so i got it the way i liked it. If you end up getting a shift boot like this one be careful when you're installing it, i broke a few of the plastic tabs on the inside when i was trying to get it to fit just right. And thanks man, i appreciate it! Glad to finally get a build thread going

 

Not quite sure how I never realized it was supposed to get tucked under the center console. It has driven me nuts for the past few months having it lift up when I would shift. Thanks man!

 

Got my solar panel mounted to my cross bars today. I used 6ft aluminum angle and ubolts to fasten it down. Dont plan on cutting the long pieces shorter just in case i want to make a mount for a gas can or something else up front.

Also added a 3ft NGP Firestik on the hood using a relentless bracket.

 

Solar Panel Install on Separate Auxillary Battery

Please note, mounting of solar panel to cross bars is in post #13

Decided to do a write up for a very simple and basic solar panel install that anyone with little to no wiring experience could tackle. I spent a few hours prior just trying to understand how a basic solar panel setup works, and i found that the diagram below was very useful for a beginner like myself. The purpose of this build/truck is mainly for recreational use on the weekends, traveling, camping and basically to have a home away from home wherever I may end up.

Basic Diagram/Info


Threads I used:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/solar-panel-install.472522/


Materials/tools needed/that I used:


Heat shrink
10-12 gauge butt splices
Mc4 connectors
Electrical tape
Electrical tie wraps
Ring terminals 3/8in 4 & 6awg
2 In line fuse holders for 1/4” x 1 1/4” fuses
7-7.5 amp fuses 1/4” x 1 1/4”
Blue solar 75/15 MPPT charge controller
10 or 12 AWG wire
100w solar panel
Heat gun
Wire strippers/razor knife
Sta-kon pliers/wire crimpers

Running wiring:
I opted to run my wiring from the roof of my shell down in between the cab and along the frame rail to the back of the truck where my second battery is mounted.

Heres a couple of pics of how i ran the wiring along the cross bars and towers


I ran the wiring from the solar panel down from the tower and in between the cab and the shell and then along the frame rail to the back of the truck. I had trouble figuring out where i wanted to run it to making it the cleanest and settled on this.


I ran the wiring up through the gap between the bumper and tailgate and into the shell to my charge controller.

Wiring a set MC4 connectors onto the red (+) and black (-) wires that run from the solar panel to the charge controller was necessary since the Renogy panel i got came with them on the ends. It was either this route, or splicing into them and i wanted an easy disconnect so i decided to buy a few extra MC4 connectors and add them onto my wiring. Please Note, the video below is just a basic reference on how to wire up the mc4 connectors, in order for the connectors to work properly with a renogy panel, i suggest looking at the ends of the connectors coming off the solar panel and fitting the right connector onto those to ensure they make contact. I noticed when doing this that pieces you are wiring onto your 10-12 awg wire were the opposite of what the video below explains.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGksTZpEGJI




Adding in-line fuses:
After you have your wiring in place, now you can add a fuse to the positive line coming from your solar panel (Red wire) and into your controller. You will also need to add an in line fuse of the same size for the positive lead going from your charge controller to your battery (Green wire).

Cut into the wiring and strip the ends down so you can get ready to splice in the fuse. The fuses i bought from home depot were 12 AWG and came in one piece like pictured below. You will need to cut it and strip down both ends. Once you get all of the wires cut, make sure to go back through and twist the ends of each of them tight.



Next, take your in-line fuse and splice them into the wire using 10-12 AWG butt splices or by soldering the wiring. When using butt splices, make sure after crimping the connections, that you pull on each of the ends and make sure the connection is tight. The picture below is just for the positive wire coming from my solar panel. You will need to do this again to the positive wire going from your charge controller to your battery.



After finishing that up, tape up your connections well and add the fuse size of your choice. In my case, i went with a 10 amp. I used the formula in the first wiring diagram that stated your fuse size should be the Panel’s ISC x 1.2
Edited: I was able to find the correct size fuse (7.5amp) at O'reilly's auto parts.

My panel’s ISC is 5.75 so my fuse should be roughly 6.9 amps. I looked for a 7 amp fuse but was unable to find any so i settled for a 10.



For my setup, i used some wire that i had laying around and so the red(+) and black(-) were running from my panel to my charge controller. The green(+) and white(-) wires run from the charge controller to the battery.


I used an aluminum box off of an old feeder that normally houses the battery, timer, and motor to mount my charge controller. Drilled pilot holes, and then used self tapping screws to mount it vertically. Drilled holes to run the wires out from the controller into the bed area.


Here's where i mounted my auxillary 31M northstar battery. Fabbed up a mounting box using steel angle and welded it to the oem receiver hitch. Still need to fab up a tie down solution, just ratchet strapped it in for now.







Update (6/23/17): Fabbed up a tie down solution. Used some j bolts i bought at o'reilly's and drilled holes in some extra steel flat bar i had laying around.



At this point, you can start adding ring terminals to the wires running from the charge controller to the battery (White(-) and Green(+)), and hook them up. this would also be the time to add a digital voltmeter and hook it up to the battery as well to keep an eye on things. Just today, i've observed from 12.7v to 14.3v, depending on the amount of sunlight and whether or not my fridge was running.



Couple more pics from up top



Also wired my fridge to the battery using a basic relay and switch so i could test everything out. Next up is to wire up my fuse block, inverter, mount my volt meter and tidy things up, but this is a basic guide of what all it takes to have a basic off the grid setup.

If you have any questions or need more specific pictures, feel free to post in here, and I'll do my best to answer them.

Edited to add: Link to my Aux fuse block & inverter setup here

 

Very cool!

 

Thanks man! I'm hoping it will help some folks get a better understanding of a basic setup. there's really not much to it, its just time consuming figuring out how you want to set it all up/run the wires

 

Added a couple of voltmeters yesterday so i could monitor my truck (starting) battery and my auxillary battery that my solar panel is hooked up to. My truck didn't come with power mirrors, so i just popped out the blank that was there and put them there. Required no modification to the dash area of the truck.


Also made a run out to Junction TX and checked out South Llano river state park. Pretty cool area, great swimming and kayaking out that way. Here's a bridge on the way into town, had to stop and take a pic of it.

 

Got my wilco hitchgate solo hi clearance & 3.5gal fuelpax installed. Fabbing up a license plate relocate bracket next

EDIT: Please note if you have the hitchgate and buy the single rotopax mount that also allows you to mount a hilift jack, a 3.5 gallon rotopax can WILL NOT FIT. It fits in these pictures, but that is because my receiver hitch is mounted slanted downwards (I did this by accident and after fixing it, the can hits the tailgate). Notice how the spare tire looks like it's tilted towards the back at the top of the wheel. This is how it was able to clear, but the tire did not sit perpendicular to the back of the truck

 

​

 

Welcome back sir!